Page 132 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

130  VENICE AREA B Y AREA

1 Campo San
Barnaba
Map 6 D3. 4 Ca’ Rezzonico.
The Parish of San Barnaba,
with its canalside square at the
centre, was known in the 18th
century as the home of
impoverished Venetian
patricians. They were attracted
by the cheap rents, and while
some relied on State support
or begging, others worked in
the State gambling house.
Today the square and canal,
with its vegetable barge, are Tiepolo’s New World fresco, part of a series in Ca’ Rezzonico
quietly appealing. The church
(open am Mon–Sat) is fairly 3 Ca’ Rezzonico Browning and his son, Pen,
unremarkable, apart from a Fondamenta Rezzonico 3136. who was married to an
Tiepolesque ceiling, although its Map 6 E3. Tel 041 241 01 00. 4 Ca’ American heiress. Browning
façade was shown in Indiana Rezzonico. Open 10am–6pm Wed– spoke of the “gaiety and comfort
Jones and the Last Crusade. Mon (Nov–Mar: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan, of the enormous rooms” but
1 May, 25 Dec. & ^ 9 = 7 - had little time to enjoy them.
∑ carezzonico.visitmuve.it In 1889, he died of bronchitis.
2 Ponte dei Pugni The outstanding attraction
This richly furnished Baroque in the palace today is Giorgio
Fondamenta Gherardini.
Map 6 D3. 4 Ca’ Rezzonico. palace is one of the most Massari’s ballroom, which
splendid in Venice. It is also occupies the entire breadth
Venice has several Ponti dei one of the few palaces in of the building. It has been
Pugni (“bridges of fists”), but this the city, which opens its beautifully restored and is
is the most famous. Spanning doors to the public. Since embellished with gilded
the peaceful Rio San Barnaba, 1934 it has housed chandeliers, carved
the small bridge is distinguished the museum of furniture by Andrea
by two pairs of footprints set in 18th-century Venice, Brustolon and a
white stone on top of the its rooms furnished ceiling with trompe
bridge. These mark the starting with frescoes, l’oeil frescoes. Three
positions for the fights which paintings and rooms between the
traditionally took place between period pieces taken ballroom and Grand
rival factions. Formerly there from other local palaces Canal side of the palace
were no balustrades and or museums. have ceilings with
contenders hurled each other The building was frescoes by Giambattista
straight into the water. The begun by Baldassare Tiepolo, including, in
battles became so bloodthirsty Longhena (architect Allegory of Strength, the Sala della Allegoria
that they were banned in 1705. of La Salute, see p139) Andrea Brustolon Nuziale, his lively
in 1667, but the funds Nuptial Allegory (1758).
of the Bon family, who Eighteenth-century paintings
commissioned it, ran dry before occupy the piano nobile (second
the second floor was started. floor). A whole room is devoted
In 1712, long after Longhena’s to Pietro Longhi’s portrayals of
death, the unfinished palace everyday Venetian life. Other
was bought by the Rezzonicos, paintings worthy of note are
a family of merchants-turned- Francesco Guardi’s Ridotto
bankers from Genoa. A large (1748) and Nuns’ Parlour (1768),
portion of the Rezzonico fortune and one of the few Canalettos
was spent on the purchase, in Venice, his View of the Rio
construction and decoration dei Mendicanti (1725).
of the palace. By 1758 it was in Giandomenico Tiepolo’s
a fit state for the Rezzonicos to fascinating series of frescoes
throw the first of the huge painted for his villa at Zianigo
banquets and celebratory (1770–1800) are also to be
parties for which they later found here. On the floor above
became renowned. is a reconstructed 18th-century
Boats and barges moored along the In 1888 the palace was apothecary’s shop and a
Rio San Barnaba bought by the poet Robert puppet theatre.

130-131_EW_Venice.indd 130 8/18/17 11:15 AM