Page 135 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

DORSODURO  133

the right of the façade is
one of several “lion’s mouth”
denunciation boxes surviving
from the rule of the Council
of Ten (see p46); this one was
used to complain about the
state of the streets.

r Gesuati
Fondamenta delle Zattere. Map 6 E4.
Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 Zattere. Open
10am–5pm Mon–Sat. Closed 1 Jan,
Café tables laid out along the Zattere Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 9 ^
∑ chorusvenezia.org
were dismantled on arrival in of the rival factions of the
Venice. On a sunny day it is a Castellani and Nicolotti families, Not to be confused with the
pleasure to sit at a waterside and tradition has it that this Gesuiti (see p146), this church
café here, looking across to necessitated a separate was built by the Dominicans,
the Church of the Redentore entrance for each party. who took possession of the
(see p158) or watching the The interior houses some late site in the 17th century,
waterbuses as they cross back paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, when the Gesuati Order
and forth between the shores. and there are two notable was suppressed. Work
works of art worth seeking began in 1726 and the
q Squero di out. Michele Giam bono’s stately façade reflects
San Trovaso 15th-century Gothic painting, that of Palladio’s
St Chrysogonus on Horseback,
Redentore
Rio San Trovaso. Map 6 D4. 4 is situated in the chapel on church across
Zattere. No public access. the right of the chancel, and the Giudecca.
exquisite marble reliefs of It is the most
This is one of the few surviving angels with instruments conspicuous
gondola workshops in Venice decorate the altar of the Clary landmark of
(see pp32–3), and the most chapel opposite. the long
picturesque. Its Tyrolean look Zattere
dates from the days when e Santa Maria della quayside.
craftsmen came down from The interior of
the Cadore area of the Visitazione the church is
Dolomites (see p221). Fondamenta delle Zattere. Map 6 E4. richly decorated. Gesuati façade
It is not open to the public, Tel 041 522 40 77. 4 Zattere. Tiepolo’s statue
but from the far side of the Rio Open during the Biennale, and frescoed ceiling, The
San Trovaso it is possible to on request. Life of St Dominic (1737–39),
watch the upturned gondolas demonstrates the artist’s
being given their scraping and Situated beside the Gesuati, this mastery of light and colour.
tarring treatment. Nowadays, Renaissance church was built Equally impressive (and far
only around 10 boats are between 1494 and 1524 by the easier to see) is his Virgin with
made each year, but there is Order of the Gesuati. Inside the Saints (1740), situated in the
still plenty to see. church is a fine wooden ceiling first chapel on the right. The
painted by 16th-century church also boasts two altar
Umbrian and Tuscan artists. paintings by Sebastiano Ricci
w San Trovaso The exterior bocca di leone to and Giambattista Piazzetta.
Campo San Trovaso. Map 6 D4.
Tel 041 522 21 33. 4 Zattere or
Accademia. Open 8–11am, 2:30–
5:30pm Mon–Sat, 8–11am Sun.
The church of Santi Gervasio e
Protasio, which in the eccentric
Venetian dialect is slurred to
“San Trovaso”, was built in 1590.
Unusually it has two identical
façades, one overlooking a
canal, the other a quiet square.
The church stood on neutral
ground between the parishes Squero di San Trovaso, where gondolas are given a face-lift

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