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hungry traveller.








                WHERE TO STAY

                l Havgrim Seaside Hotel on                          This is my take on
                the seafront in Tórshavn has                    a dish served as part
                cosy rooms kitted out with
                swanky accessories. Doubles                       of Oli and Anna’s
                from £255. hotelhavgrim.fo                       supperclub feast.
                l Stay at Gásadalsgarður
                Guesthouse in remote
                Gásadalur and you can wake
                up to the views of Múlafossur
                Waterfall. Doubles from £80.
                facebook.com/gasadalsgardur


                GETTING THERE
                Daily flights to the Faroe
                Islands (from Copenhagen
                to Vágar) cost from £185pp
                return with Atlantic Airways
                (atlantic.fo). From March to
                December, Atlantic Airways
                operates twice-weekly flights
                from Edinburgh from £185pp
                return; Atlantic Airways also
                flies direct from Paris.
                For more information, see
                visitfaroeislands.com




             menu. Ziska’s dishes explore the             TRY THIS AT HOME...
             possibilities of the local ingredients,
             from raw scallops to sturgeon                Salt cod and potatoes                           pan over a medium-high heat. Add the
             caviar and majestic mahogany                 SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT LUNCH. HANDS-ON TIME        potatoes and fry for 8-10 minutes, shaking
             clams, huge molluscs that can live           40 MIN, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING                  the pan occasionally, until golden. Remove
             for up to 500 years. Next comes                                                              from the pan and keep warm.
             puffin head, complete with beak,             • 300g salt cod (from brindisa.co.uk)           5 Reduce the heat to medium, add the cod
             and finally whale heart. The                 • 500g baby new potatoes, halved                and cook skin-side down for 8 minutes or
             atmosphere is jovial and staff are           • 2 medium free-range eggs                      so until the flesh firms/turns paler. Remove
             warm and welcoming, all wearing              • 1 tbsp olive oil                              from the pan and flake the fish off the skin
             casual black clothes and killer              • 35g butter                                    into a bowl (discard the skin and any bones).
             silver trainers. Attention to detail         • 150g good quality mayonnaise                  6 Heat a large clean frying pan over a
             is impeccable. The tasting menu              • Handful finely chopped fresh dill             medium heat. Melt the butter and cook for
           RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN GREGORY-SMITH
             costs DKK1,900 (£213) without                • Grated zest and juice ½ lemon                 about a minute until it smells nutty. Add
             drinks per person, but it’s an                                                               the potatoes and a sprinkle of pepper, then
             unforgettable experience. Michelin           1 The day before you want to eat, rinse the     mix. Remove from the heat, add the cod
             dining doesn’t usually do it for me.         salt cod under cold water to remove as          and lemon juice, then gently toss together.
             I like a table filled with food rather       much salt as you can. Put it in a bowl and      7 Mix the mayonnaise in a bowl with most of
             than a few morsels artfully                  cover with cold water, then leave overnight     the dill, the lemon zest and a little pepper.
             arranged on a plate. Koks, however,          in the fridge. The next day, drain and rinse    8 To serve, divide the fish and potatoes
             like everything in the Faroe Islands,        again under cold water, then pat dry.           among 4 serving plates and add half a soft-
             surprised me and I loved it.                 2 Boil the potatoes in a pan of salted water    boiled egg. Spoon the juices from the pan
                At every twist and turn this              for 10-12 minutes until tender, then drain.     over the fish and sprinkle with the rest of
             isolated archipelago got better and          3 Meanwhile, boil the eggs for 5-6 minutes,     the dill. Serve with the dill mayonnaise.
             better, unravelling into one of the          then put in a bowl of iced water to stop them   PER SERVING 619kcals, 41.4g fat
             most magical experiences of my               cooking. Once cool, peel and set aside.         (7.9g saturated), 40.5g protein, 20.1g carbs
             life. Get out there and get stuck in.        4 Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying      (2.5g sugars), 1.1g salt, 2.3g fibre
             I can’t recommend it enough.


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