Page 120 - Delicious - UK (February 2020)
P. 120

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
                                                                               Turf roof, a traditional Scandinavian
                                                                               building technique; Faroe sheep
                                                                               outnumber people on the islands;
                                                                               Tórshavn’s pretty harbour,
                                                                               Vesteravag; fish drying in the salty
                                                                               wind; the islands’ northerly location
                                                                               means sunshine is rare in winter













































               FAROE ISLANDS
                                             Kalsoy  Kunoy  Viooy
                                Eysturoy                          Fugloy



                                                                  Svinoy
                                   l Lake
                         Streymoy   Saksunarvatu
                                                             Borooy
                                        Lake
                                        Leynavatn
                Gásadalur l             l                                  fishermen have had a good week.           wine list and a short modern menu
                              Airport
                              l
              Mykines                                    Norwegian         You can buy saltfiskur – salt cod         that includes grilled langoustines,
                    Vágar                    TÓRSHAVN                      – from Mortans, a wonderful old           crab claws with a herb dipping sauce,
                             Lake l             l            Sea
                             Leitisvatn                                    fisherman with a terrific twinkle in      and blue mussels caught in the
                                     Koltur            Nólsoy
                                       Hestur                              his eye. Carry on walking around          waters next to the village of Kaldbak.
                                                                           the quay and you’ll find Skeiva             For sweet indulgence, put your
                                                                           Pakkhús (skeivapakkhus.fo), an            feet up and enjoy a slice of cake and
                                                     Sandoy
                      North                                                Italian-inspired restaurant run by        steaming coffee at Paname Café
                     Atlantic            Skúvoy                            Johannes Jensen, who runs 15              (facebook.com/paname.fo). Pastry
                     Ocean                                                 establishments on the islands. I          chef Niels Brogaard Á Rógvu has
                                                                           loved head chef Henry Samuelsen’s         gained a reputation for having the
                                                   Stóra Dimun
                                                                           ravioli stuffed with salt cod and         best desserts in town – his carrot
                                                    Litla Dimun            served with a slick of brown butter.      cake is seriously impressive.
                                                                              Set back from the harbour is lamb
                                                                           and seafood specialist Áarstova           PRESERVING TRADITION
                                                   Suouroy
                                                                           (aarstova.fo), in a traditional wooden    After checking out a number of
                                                                           building. Expect a warm welcome           restaurant menus, it struck me how
                   N                                                       at nearby Barbara Fish House              many dried and preserved foods

                                                                           (barbara.fo), as well as a cracking       there were. The climate is harsh
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