Page 116 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

114 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Suffolk pink
All over Suffolk there are ancient
houses washed in attractive hues
of pink. Although today most are
coloured with conventional paints,
traditionally Suffolk pink distemper
included buttermilk coloured with
pigs’ blood. Using blackthorn or
sloe juice instead was said to
produce a redder shade of paint.

4 Audley End
Essex; CB11 4JF
Henry VIII gave Walden Abbey to Sir
Thomas Audley, who transformed it
into a splendid mansion (Apr–Oct: open
daily; www.english-heritage.org.uk). The
third Baron Baybrooke, who came into
the property in 1825, brought in works
by Holbein, Canaletto and many more.
There are 30 rooms to be seen, some
designed by Robert Adam, as well
Above left Thaxted’s picturesque 19th-century as parkland designed by landscape
windmill Above top right The Tudor-style 3 Saffron Walden gardener “Capability” Brown, and a
town hall in the heart of Saffron Walden, built Essex; CB10 Victorian kitchen garden.
in 1761 Above right Thatched cottage in A medieval market town, Saffron ª Return to Saffron Walden and take
traditional Suffolk pink, Thaxted Walden sits on the River Cam, in pris­ B184 south (clearly signed) to Thaxted.
tine Essex countryside. Dating in parts Park on the street.
from the 12th century, the town has
many half­timbered buildings, though 5 Thaxted
the Tudor­style town hall was built as Essex; CM6
late as 1761. Opened in 1835, Saffron A pleasing, small town which boasts
Walden Museum (open Tue–Sun; www. ancient, timber­framed houses and a
saffronwaldenmuseum.org) is one of 14th­century Guildhall complete with
Britain’s oldest public museums. It jail (open Easter–Sep: Sun and for special
VISITING SUDBURY stands in a meadow, beside the exhibitions). There’s also a windmill
ruins of 12th­century Walden castle built in 1804, almshouses and, on the
Tourist Information
The Library, Market Hill, CO10 2EN; and offers eclectic collections – from hilltop, the magnificent Church of St
01787 881 320 Egyptian sarcophagi and mammoth John the Baptist. Dating to the 14th
River Stour Trust tusks to displays about the people century, the “Cathedral of Essex” is
The Granary, Quay Lane, CO10 2AN; and natural history of the region. held by some to be the finest parish
01787 313 199; www.riverstourtrust.org ª From the centre, follow signs on church in the country. The town’s
B1383 to Audley End and car park. famous residents have included
WHERE TO STAY composer Gustav Holst, who lived
Below Audley End, one of the finest Jacobean here 1914–25, when writing his
SAFFRON WALDEN houses in England Planets Suite, and highwayman Dick
Saffron Hotel moderate
This classic market­town hotel, dating
back to the 16th century, offers 16
comfortable en­suite rooms in a handy
central location.
8–12 High Street, CB10 1AZ; 01799
522 676; www.saffronhotel.co.uk
THAXTED
Swan Hotel moderate
A refurbished hotel, this traditional
coaching inn provides spruce, comfort­
able accom modation at reasonable
prices. Check for special offers. Restau­
rant serves traditional English food.
Bull Ring, CM6 2PL; 01371 830 321;
www.swanhotel-thaxted.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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