Page 117 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 10: The River Cam and Constable Country 115

Turpin (1705–39), whose cottage can
be seen on the alley up to the church.
ª Take Bardfield Road right, signed
“the Bardfields”, to Great Bardfield
and B1057 left to Finchingfield. Park
on street.
6 Finchingfield
Essex; CM7
A picture-postcard village, reputedly
the most photographed in England,
with thatched cottages, village green,
duck pond, windmill and Norman
Church of St John the Baptist. Dodie
Smith, author of The One Hundred and
One Dalmatians, once lived here.
ª Cross the bridge. Turn right past the
church to Wethersfield, head east along Above War Memorial by the village green and
the High Street to Sible Hedingham. Go and a bronze statue of the painter pond at Finchingfield
left on A1017 and then right on B1058. Thomas Gainsborough (1727–88),
Follow signs to the car park. which presides over the market square.
Modern commercial development has EAT AND DRINK
been at some cost to historic charm,
but Gainsborough’s House (open daily; SAFFRON WALDEN
www.gainsborough.org), a typical Suffolk Kim’s Coffee House inexpensive
building, has a unique collection of the Home-baked cakes and scones,
sandwiches and filled baguettes, and a
work of this master of portraiture and vast choice of leaf teas can be enjoyed
landscape. Loaned works and local in the Georgian premises of this friendly
artists are frequently on display, too. establishment or outside, in the gardens.
In the walled garden stands a 400- 5 Hill Street, CB10 1EH; 01799 513 553;
year-old mulberry tree. South of www.kimstea.com; closed Sun
town, there are pleasant meadows AROUND SAFFRON WALDEN
to picnic in and river cruise boats Cricketers moderate
operate from the quayside, run by Locally sourced, seasonal, organic food
the River Stour Trust. takes pride of place at this 16th-century
Above Ancient mulberry tree in the grounds of ª Follow signs round one-way inn, run by the parents of TV chef Jamie
Gainsborough’s House, Sudbury system to Bury St Edmunds, A134. Oliver, 12 minutes’ drive from Saffron
Walden on the B1383/B10.8. The menu
Branch onto B1064 to Long Melford. features chicken, “lots of fish” and
7 Hedingham Castle homemade sausages.
Essex; CO9 3DJ Wicken Road, Clavering; CB11 4QT;
Cross a dry moat using a Tudor bridge 01799 550 442; www.thecricketers.co.uk
to reach the four-storey remains of HEDINGHAM CASTLE
this 12th-century castle (Apr–Sep, open Bell Inn inexpensive–moderate
Wed & Sun; www.hedinghamcastle.co.uk ), Beamed and timbered 15th-century
with its tall keep, banqueting hall and real-ale pub in extensive garden, serv-
minstrels’ gallery. The grounds and sur- ing freshly prepared, honest food, much
rounding woodlands are especially of it locally sourced. Turkish pizzas from
the wood-fired oven Wednesdays to
lovely in spring when carpeted with Saturdays, while Monday nights during
bluebells. In summer, there may be summer is barbecued fish night.
jousting and other spectacles. CO9 3EJ; 01787 460350; www.
ª Take B1058, then A131 to Sudbury. hedinghambell.co.uk
Join one-way system and follow signs to AROUND SUDBURY
car park by Tourist Information Centre. The Henny Swan moderate
This inn with garden on the banks of the
8 Sudbury Stour, south of Sudbury, has numerous
Suffolk; CO10 awards for its stylish gastropub cooking.
This ancient Suffolk wool town, amid Try, perhaps, smoked pigeon breast
salad for starters followed by venison
sublime countryside in the Stour Valley, loin with poached pear.
boasts no fewer than three medieval Above The imposing keep of 12th-century Henny Street, Great Henny, CO10 7LS;
churches, a Victorian corn exchange, Hedingham Castle 01787 267 953; www.thehennyswan.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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