Page 118 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

116 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Constable Country
“The sound of water escaping from
mill dams, willows, old rotten planks,
slimy posts and brickwork, I love
such things. These scenes made me
a painter.” So wrote John Constable
(1776–1837), who would go on to
be recognized, with J M W Turner,
as one of the foremost landscape
artists of the 19th century. The
dramatic vistas, farmlands, water
meadows and marshes of the Stour
Valley and Dedham Vale, the big
skies and distant church spires, all
Above Tudor mansion of Kentwell Hall, built evoke Constable’s true spirit.
in 1554, Long Melford 9 Long Melford
Essex; CO10 9AA
This village is aptly named, with its horses. The humour and hospitality of
long high street lined with specialist Patrick Phillips – owner since 1970 – is
and independent shops, galleries and everywhere in evidence.
antiques emporia, bars, restaurants ª Head back towards Sudbury on
WHERE TO STAY and old inns. Holy Trinity Church, B1064, then follow one-way system to
LONG MELFORD dating from the late 15th century, is A134 (signed Colchester). Turn off left
Bull Hotel moderate grand and glorious and the Old Bull onto B1068 to Stoke-by-Nayland. Park
There are 25 comfortable en-suite rooms Inn (c. 1450) once played host to in the centre.
at this old but friendly and comfortable Beatle John Lennon. Delightful
half-timbered inn set in a central location. Georgian and Queen Anne cottages 0 Stoke-by-Nayland
Hall Street, CO10 9JG; 01787 378 494; overlook the green, as does turreted Suffolk; CO6 4QU
www.oldenglishinns.co.uk
Melford Hall (1554) (open late Mar–late Another wonderful Suffolk village, on
AROUND LONG MELFORD Oct: Wed–Sun pm; www.nationaltrust.org. a hilltop in Constable Country, Stoke-
Angel moderate uk), where Queen Elizabeth I once by-Nayland has plenty of attractive
Decent pub accommodation slept and where children’s author half-timbered and traditional pink-
and obliging service in this warm and Beatrix Potter sketched for her books washed cottages. St Mary’s Church,
friendly inn (first licensed in 1420). Head
north out of Long Melford on the A134 by the fishponds. Then, it’s into the car which features in a number of John
and turn right on Bridge Street Road at again and – “Parp, parp!” – head north, Constable’s paintings, was built from
Bridge Street to get to Lavenham. following tourist signs to the setting the profits of the local wool trade and
Market Place, Lavenham, CO10 9QZ; for the film Toad of Toad Hall. Kentwell dates mainly from the 14th and 16th
01787 247 388; www. Hall (check online calendar for opening centuries. It has a fine octagonal font
theangellavenham.co.uk
times: www.kentwell.co.uk) is a moated, and a well-preserved oak door,
DEDHAM red-brick Tudor mansion, with gardens adorned with a Tree of Jesse.
Dedham Hall and Fountain and a rare-breeds farm – home to ª Rejoin B1068 to Higham. Here, turn
House moderate Tamworth pigs, near-extinct Norfolk right and right to Stratford St Mary. At
This historic manor house hotel and
restaurant set in expansive grounds Horn sheep and huge Suffolk Punch the village sign turn left to the car park.
also has an artists’ studio and art school
housed in a converted Dutch barn. The
hotel offers 18 pleasant rooms (13 in
an annexe for painting holidays). The
place is run with a generous ethos.
Brook Street, CO7 6AD; 01206 323 027;
www.dedhamhall.co.uk
Sun Inn moderate–expensive
There are seven bedrooms furnished
to a high standard in this 15th-century
inn. The food on offer is good, too.
Expect imaginative breakfasts and a
restaurant featuring modern British
cooking. Also prepares delicious
picnics to order.
High Street, CO7 6DF; 01206 323 351;
www.thesuninndedham.com
Right St Mary’s Church, Stoke-by-Nayland,
a typical Suffolk “wool” church
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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