Page 119 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 10: The River Cam and Constable Country 117

Above left 16th-century half-timbered house,
q Stratford St Mary munningsmuseum.org.uk), a showcase Stratford St Mary Above centre Sign for a
Suffolk; CO7 6YG for this artist, famous for his studies of 15th-century coaching inn in pretty Dedham
The southernmost village in Suffolk, racehorses, and an excellent painter Above right View of the River Stour from the
Stratford St Mary is another “Constable of landscapes. bridge, East Bergholt
Country” location. On the road in, look ª From the centre, take Manningtree
out for the fine pair of striped half- Road, left at T-junction, left onto A137, EAT AND DRINK
timbered houses, the Ancient House left at roundabout (still A137). Go left on
and Priest’s House (not open to the B1070 to East Bergholt. Park by church. LONG MELFORD
public), opposite the Post Office. Carry Gigi’s Trattoria inexpensive
on under the A12 to find flint-faced e East Bergholt Welcoming and genuine Italian
St Mary’s Church. The building is Suffolk; CO7 6UP eatery serving a short but excellent
mainly 15th century, but parts of it The birthplace of John Constable, this menu with the likes of proscuitto
may date back to the 1200s. Further village boasts more pubs than any and Emmental ravioli.
along the road (once known as Water other in Suffolk. The “ruined” flint towers Little St Mary’s, CO10 9HX; 01787 329
279; www.gigistrattoria.co.uk; closed
Lane) stands Ravenys, a private of the Church of St Mary the Virgin Mon & Tue
house immortalized in Constable’s were never completed. The bells, Scutchers moderate
painting A House on Water Lane. however, had already been cast and Excellent cooking from a fairly short
ª Continue on B1029 over A12 to now hang in a timber bell cage dating à la carte menu offering dishes such
Dedham and park by church. from 1531 – they are rung on Sunday as sautéed veal kidneys with pancetta,
mornings. Head down Flatford Road seared scallops with an asparagus
w Dedham (clearly signed) to visit Willy Lott’s velouté and fillet of halibut on a
prawn and chive chowder. They
Essex; CO7 6AZ Cottage and Flatford Mill – settings for have a very creditable wine list too.
This village retains some fine timber- two of Constable’s famous paintings, Westgate Street, CO10 9DP; 01787
framed and early-Georgian buildings, The Hay Wain and The Mill Stream. 310 200; www.scutchers.com;open
and the Church of St Mary the Virgin, Nearby, there are lovely walks on both Thu–Sat
built in 1492, whose graceful 40-m sides of the River Stour and rowing STOKE-BY-NAYLAND
(131-ft) tower appears in Constable’s boats can be rented for waterborne Crown Inn moderate
paint ings – his work The Ascension is adventures. The lovely East Bergholt A changing menu based on local
on display inside. The painter attended Place (Mar–Sep: open daily; www. ingredients includes catch of the day,
the Old Grammar School, founded by placeforplants.co.uk), just off the B1070, Bradfield potatoes and Colchester
Elizabeth I. Head east on Brook Street described as “a Cornish garden in asparagus, washed down with local
ales. Upmarket but friendly. Eleven
and follow the road to the Sir Alfred Suffolk”, and laid out 1900–14, features bedrooms and great breakfasts.
Munnings Art Museum (Apr–Oct: an arboretum and specialist plant Park Street, CO6 4SE; 01206 262 001;
open 2–5pm Wed–Sun; www. centre in a Victorian walled garden. www.crowninn.net
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow Trumpington St, there and back. Creative Inspiration
Take in the area’s wealth of beautiful Quintessential England From Long Melford 9, see the
and historic buildings alongside Staying at Saffron Walden 3, see two great halls with links to popular
idyllic English scenery. its town hall and museum, before children’s books. Visit Sudbury 8, to
A University Education touring the mansion at Audley End learn about Gainsborough, then take
the Constable tour through Stoke-
In Cambridge 1, enjoy the walk 4. Then off to Thaxted 5, for more by-Nayland 0, Stratford St Mary q,
around stunning architecture, some of half-timbered buildings and church. and Dedham w, and East Bergholt
it over 800 years old. Picnic and punt Drive on to pretty Finchingfield 6, e, to see the places and countryside
along the Cam, then drive the short and finish the day with a visit to that inspired the great artist.
distance to Grantchester 2 for tea, Hedingham Castle 7.
before returning to Cambridge. Follow the drive instructions. Follow the drive instructions.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

112-117_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 117 20/07/18 8:09 PM