Page 234 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain
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232 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

                               1 Inveraray
                               Argyll; PA32
                               Sitting on the banks of Loch Fyne, Inveraray is small but imposing. The
                               town was built by the 3rd Duke of Argyll in the 18th century and has
                               two main visitor attractions – its 19th-century jail and castle. The walk
                               explores the surrounding woodland and starts with a visit to the castle.
                               A one-and-a-half-hour   the ground is carpeted with bluebells.
                               walking tour            The track soon passes a ruined former
                               From the car park, visit Inveraray Castle   lime kiln 4 on the left hand side.
                               1 (Apr–Oct: open daily; www.inveraray-  Continue uphill, then branch right
                               castle.com). The building belongs to the   after a few minutes, still following the
                               Duke of Argyll, and the family are head   blue arrows.
                               of the Campbell clan – the 1st Duke’s   Eventually the path bears to the
                               regiment carried out the notorious   right and flattens out a little, and the
                               massacre at Glencoe (see p234). It is   fresh scent of pine trees fills the air.
       Above View of Argyll Hotel and church tower   crammed with tapestries, silverware   After passing the remains of a wall,
       from Loch Fyne          and porcelain and unusual items such   the woodland opens out, providing a
                               as Rob Roy’s sporran.   glimpse of the surrounding hills. Zig-
        VISITING INVERARAY      From the castle entrance, look for the  zag uphill now, to reach the summit,
       Tourist Information     “Dun na Cuaich walk” signs and follow   which is covered with wild flowers in
       Front Street, PA32 8UY; 01499 302 063;   the blue arrows along a tarmac track.   summer and also has a welcome seat.
       www.inveraray-argyll.com; Apr–Oct:   This soon passes a monument 2,   The views of the castle, the town and
       open daily; Nov-Mar: closed Sun.   commemorating the execution of 17   the loch spread out far beneath are
       Parking                 Campbell leaders by the 1st Marquis of   wonderful. Dun na Cuaich 5 means
       There is parking off The Avenue, in the   Atholl in 1685. This was punishment   something like “fort of cups” in Gaelic
       centre of Inveraray, and by the castle.
                               for rising against the Stuart King   and this peak was the site of an Iron-
                               James II in protest at his assertion that   Age hillfort. The summit is topped
        WHERE TO STAY
                               he was divine head of the church.  with a monument, built by another of
       INVERARAY                Cross the charming 18th-century   the famous Adam family of architects.
       Creag Dhubh moderate    stone bridge 3 – built by John Adam   Some say it was used as a watchtower
       A large, detached house set in neat   – that spans the River Aray, then bear   by the Campbells, others that it was
       gardens, this family-run B&B has five bed-  right to go through the woods. At a   simply built to enhance the landscape.
       rooms and great views over Loch Fyne.
       Main Street South, PA32 8XT; 01499 302   gate, go straight ahead on the grassy   After enjoying the views and taking
       430; www.creagdhubh.com   track to reach another gate, which   a well-earned rest, simply follow the
                               leads into woodland – in springtime   path back down to Inveraray. The
       Rudha-Na-Craige moderate
       This handsome house was built in the
       19th century by the Duke of Argyll. Now
       it is a 4-star B&B, with six unfussy, stylish
       bedrooms, all with views of Loch Fyne.
       Inverarary, PA32 8YX; 01499 302 668;                  Dun na
       www.rudha-na-craige.com                               Cuaich
       Loch Fyne Hotel and Spa expensive
       Near the harbour, with stunning views of
       Loch Fyne, this hotel has comfortable,
       stylish rooms, a swimming pool and spa.
       Main Street South, PA32 8XT; 01499   Lime Kiln
       302 980; www.crerarhotels.com
       BONAWE IRON FURNACE
       Ardanaiseig Hotel expensive
       Wildly romantic hotel on the shores of
       Loch Awe (take B845 from Taynuilt), this
       historic house has luxurious bedrooms.  Stone
       Kilchrenan, by Taynuilt, Argyll, PA35 1HE;   Bridge
       01866 833 333; www.ardanaiseig.com   Monument
       OBAN
       Ranald Hotel moderate                     Inveraray
       Modern hotel just off Oban’s main street   Castle
       with 17 en-suite rooms of varying sizes,           0 metres        500
       including rooms for a small family.            Aray
       41 Stevenson Street PA34 5NA; 01631                0 yards       500
       562 887; www.theranaldhotel.com
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


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