Page 236 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

234 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The Glencoe Massacre
The Macdonalds of Glencoe were
supporters of the Stuart kings. The
government offered an amnesty to
Highland chiefs who swore an oath
of allegiance to the new monarchs,
William and Mary. However, the
Macdonald Chief was late making his
declaration. So the Earl of Argyll’s
regiment, led by Captain Campbell,
was sent to Glencoe. After enjoying
the local hospitality for 10 days, on 13
February 1692, the soldiers attacked
their hosts, killing 38 Macdonalds.
Above The lush Ardnamurchan Peninsula, a
haven for Scottish wildlife 6 Glencoe
Glencoe; PH49 4LA Continue on B8007 to Ardnamurchan
CROSSING TO SKYE The mountains of Glencoe, described Point, generally regarded as mainland
Car ferry services by Queen Victoria as: “stern, rugged, Britain’s most westerly point. Built in
The ferry crossing to Skye from Mallaig precipitous”, are truly dramatic and 1849 and automated in 1988, the
takes about 30 minutes and is run by home to wildlife as varied as mountain lighthouse (Apr–Oct; www.ardnamurchan
Caledonian Macbrayne (08000 665 hares and golden eagles. But it is for lighthouse.com) is also a museum – climb
000; www.calmac.co.uk). The Glenelg–
Skye Ferry (Easter–Sep: runs daily the brutal massacre of 1692 that this the 152 steps to the top to enjoy
every 20 mins; www.calmac.co.uk) sombre place is best known. Glencoe glorious views. Just below there’s also a
crosses from Kylerhea to Glenelg. Visitor Centre (open daily; www.nts.org.uk) fabulous beach at Sanna, where the
has an excellent exhibition and film on white sand is made of shells.
WHERE TO STAY the history and wildlife of the glen; a ª Follow B8007 back to Salen, go left
viewing platform, and information on A861 and left on A830 to Mallaig.
AROUND GLENCOE
Kilcamb Lodge Hotel expensive on walks and climbs in the area. Take the ferry to Skye. Once on the
Peaceful hotel in a stunning lochside ª Follow A82 towards Fort William. island, take A851 to the castle.
location on the A861, beyond Strontian After Onich, follow signs for Corran
on the drive to Ardnamurchan Peninsula. Ferry and cross to Ardgour. Then follow 8 Armadale Castle Gardens
Combines luxury with friendliness and the A861 to Salen, and take B8007 to Armadale, Isle of Skye; IV45 8RS
attention to detail. Excellent food, too. the Natural History Centre and car park. Now largely ruined, the castle was once
Strontian, Argyll, PH36 4HY; 01967 402
257; www.kilcamblodge.co.uk home to members of the Clan Donald,
7 Ardnamurchan Peninsula former rulers of this area – Jacobite hero-
AROUND ARMADALE CASTLE Argyll; PH36 4JG ine Flora Macdonald was married here.
GARDENS This remote peninsula has a wet Visitors can stroll in the Castle Gardens
Tigh an Dochais moderate but mild climate and is home to a (Apr–Oct: open daily; www.clandonald.com)
Sleek rooms at this spotless B&B by the
beach, with views of Broadford Bay. wide array of plants and wildlife. The and woodlands. The Museum of the
Home-made bread and jam for breakfast. Ardnamurchan Natural History Centre Isles (same hours) is full of the area’s
13 Harrapool, Isle of Skye, IV49 9AQ; (Apr–Oct: check www.ardnamurchan history and the Clan Donald. The library
01471 820 022; www.skyebedbreakfast. naturalhistorycentre.com for timings) helps those tracing their family history.
co.uk; closed Dec–Feb
introduces visitors to the flora and ª Continue on A851 and A87 into
Kinloch Lodge expensive fauna with displays, remote CCTV Broadford, then turn left onto B8083.
Cosy atmosphere at the home of the cameras, specially constructed pine Follow this scenic single track road into
chief of the Macdonald clan and his
cookery-writer wife. A log fire burns in marten dens and a live “eagle cam”. Elgol. Park above the harbour.
the drawing room and the charming
bedrooms are individually furnished.
Sleat, Isle of Skye, IV43 8QY (on A851);
01471 833 333; www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk
PLOCKTON
The Plockton Hotel expensive
This hotel sits right on the seafront in
Plockton, so try and get a room with
a view across the loch. Bedrooms are
en suite and there’s a busy bar and
restaurant downstairs.
41 Harbour View, IV52 8TN; 01599 544
274; www.plocktonhotel.co.uk
Right Splendid waterfall in Glencoe, scene of
the brutal massacre in 1692

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