Page 235 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 23: The Wild West Coast of Scotland 233

castle at the bottom has a café, where
walkers can refuel on tea and cakes.
ª Take the A819 north (signed for
Oban) then, after views of Kilchurn
Castle, turn left on the A85 to reach
Cruachan Power Station and car park.
2 Cruachan Power Station
Dalmally, Argyll; PA33 1AN
Hidden deep inside Ben Cruachan,
this hydro-electric power station,
(Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov-Mar: open Mon–
Fri; closed Jan) runs on water fed from
a reservoir high on the mountain.
Tours take visitors on a bus into a vast
cavern in the heart of the mountain.
Seeing the workings of this mighty
structure feels like entering the world
of James Bond. After a visit, try a brisk
walk around the loch or to the top of
Ben Cruachan, for views of the dam. Above top left 18th-century Bonawe Iron
ª Carry on A85, then turn right (signed resembling the Colosseum in Rome. Furnace Above Oban, overlooked by the
Brochroy), when road splits, bear right It was intended as a family memorial imposing McCaig’s Tower Above left Tower at
to Bonawe Iron Furnace. Park on site. and to provide work for local masons. Inveraray Castle, home to the Duke of Argyll
Started in 1897, it remained unfinished Below left Popular attraction of Inveraray Jail
3 Bonawe Iron Furnace when McCaig died in 1902. Climb up
By Taynuilt, Argyll; PA35 1JQ for fine views to the islands.
It is hard to imagine industry in this Just outside town, on the A85, stand EAT AND DRINK
tranquil spot by Loch Etive, but the romantic ruins of Dunstaffnage
Bonawe (Apr–Sep: open daily) was once Castle (Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov–Mar: INVERARAY
a flourishing iron furnace and what open Fri–Wed), one of Scotland’s oldest The George Hotel moderate
remains is Britain’s best example of a stone fortifications. It was built in the This popular seafront pub serves a wide
charcoal-fuelled ironworks. The 13th century to defend against maraud- range of traditional and vegetarian
ironworks were built here in the 18th ing Norsemen and was the stronghold dishes. Look out for fresh mussels and
century because of the vast supply of the MacDougall lords until it fell to chips, Scottish steak pie or haggis.
Main Street East, PA32 8TT; 01499 302
of wood from which charcoal could the kings of Scotland. Centuries later, 111; www.thegeorgehotel.co.uk
be made. Bonawe produced large Flora MacDonald was imprisoned here
numbers of cannonballs – some used for helping Bonnie Prince Charlie escape OBAN
by Lord Nelson in his sea battles. after the Jacobite rebellion. She was Oban Chocolate Company inexpensive
ª Return to the A85 and follow the later removed to the Tower of London. Relax into sofas and enjoy sea views at
this modern café for coffee, cakes and
road to Oban and park on street. ª Head north on A85, turn right onto ice cream – or hand-made chocolates.
A828 across the Connel Bridge. Follow 34 Corran Esplanade, PA34 5PS; 01631
4 Oban signs to Sea Life Sanctuary and car park. 566 099; www.obanchocolate.co.uk;
Oban, Argyll; PA34 closed Jan
Attractive Oban is a bustling working 5 Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary Oban Seafood Hut inexpensive
port, with fishing boats bobbing amid Barcaldine, Argyll; PA37 1SE Popular green hut serving the freshest
the passenger ferries running to the Situated on the shores of Loch Creran, seafood straight off the boat. Enjoy a
Hebridean islands. Overlooking the the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary (open great-value platter on the quayside.
Calmac Pier, PA34 4DB; www.oban
town is McCaig’s Tower, a monument daily; www.sealsanctuary.co.uk) rescues seafoodhut.co.uk; closed Nov–Mar
seal pups found on the coast, nursing Coast moderate
them and rehabilitating them for Contemporary restaurant in a former
return to the wild – there are resident bank, specializing in locally caught
seals to admire. The aquarium holds seafood. Try Loch Linnhe langoustines.
sea creatures from starfish to stingrays 102–104 George Street, PA34 5NT;
and there is an adventure playground 01631 569 900; www.coastoban.co.uk
and woodland trail – it’s a fascinating Ee-usk moderate
place for both adults and children. Admire the lovely views of the Oban Bay
ª Drive north on A828 along the coast, while enjoying simple yet excellent
seafood. Booking recommended.
take A82, signed Crianlarich. Turn right North Pier, PA34 5QD; 01631 565 666;
for Glencoe Visitor Centre and car park. www.eeusk.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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