Page 237 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 23: The Wild West Coast of Scotland 235

Above left Craggy mountains and landscape
9 Elgol q Eilean Donan Castle of Cuilins of Skye Above centre Female red
Isle of Skye; IV49 9BJ Dornie, by Kyle; IV40 8DX deer on the shore, Ardnamurchan Peninsula
Elgol offers fine views of the Cuillins of This gloriously romantic, castle (open Above right The pretty village of Plockton
Skye, a fierce craggy mountain range daily; closed Jan; www.eileandonancastle.
that challenges even experienced com) reached by an arched stone
climbers. Bonnie Prince Charlie was bridge sits on a rocky island, settled in EAT AND DRINK
hidden here in a remote cave, by loyal the 6th century by Saint Donan. The AROUND ARMADALE CASTLE
members of the Mackinnon clan, after castle was built much later, to defend GARDENS
defeat at Culloden in 1746. He was against invading Vikings. The building Sea Breezes moderate
then rowed across to Mallaig and was carefully restored in the 1930s – Set in a 19th century harbourside
taken to France. Visitors can take a boat visitors can now see the grand halls, building, this restaurant serves some of
trip to the cave, or join a trip to Loch bedrooms and kitchens. Eilean Donan the best and freshest of Skye’s seafood.
Coruisk in the heart of the Cuillins. may well look familiar: it has featured in 2 Marine Buildings, Quay Street,
Portree, Isle of Skye, IV51 9DE; 01478
ª Follow B8083 back to Broadford, many films, including the James Bond 612 016; www.seabreezes-skye.co.uk
turn right on A87 and right to Kylerhea, thriller, The World is Not Enough. The Three Chimneys expensive
turning left to Otter Haven Hide car park. ª Continue on the A87 – at Balmacara Acclaimed restaurant in the north of
turn right onto a pretty country road Skye, serving modern Scottish cuisine.
0 Kylerhea Otter Hide into Plockton. Park on street. The menu might include saddle of
Kylerhea, Isle of Skye; IV42 8 wild rabbit, or pan-fried sea trout,
This forest hide (open daily) offers great w Plockton followed by hot marmalade pudding.
Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye (on A87
views across the Kylerhea waters to Plockton, Ross-shire; IV52 north), IV55 8ZT; 01470 511 258;
Glenelg. Visitors can watch otters on The warm winds of the Gulf Stream www.threechimneys.co.uk
the shore, common and Atlantic grey give the little village of Plockton a
seals in the water and even the surprisingly lush appearance: there are PLOCKTON
occasional white-tailed sea eagle. The palm trees, colourful flowers and all Harbour Fish Bar inexpensive
otters here inspired Gavin Maxwell’s sorts of exotic plants flourishing in the Fabulous chip shop serving the freshest
locally caught fish (and chips), as well
famous novel, Ring of Bright Water. gardens that line the harbour. It started as veggie dishes, pizza and pasta.
ª From Kylerhea take ferry to Glenelg, life as a fishing village, planned in the Innes Street, IV52 8TW; open daily
take the coast road then turn left to Shiel 18th-century by the Earl of Seaforth. It Apr–Oct
Bridge. Stop at viewpoint for Five Sisters makes a relaxing base and is popular Plockton Shores moderate
of Kintail mountains above Loch Duich. with sailors, who moor their yachts in This is part-grocer’s shop, part-
In Shiel Bridge, turn left on the A87, then the harbour. Visitors can enjoy loch restaurant, on the waterfront in
left to castle. In winter, when ferry is not and hill walks or go on a sea cruise to Plockton. Locally sourced food might
include scallops, or venison cooked
running, leave Skye on A87, cross bridge see the coast with Calum’s Boat Trips with juniper and thyme.
to Kyle of Lochalsh, turn left for Plockton. (01599 544 306; www.calums-sealtrips.com). 30 Harbour St, IV52 8TN; 01599 544 263
DAY TRIP OPTIONS 3, for a picnic in the idyllic grounds walk around pretty Armadale Castle
This route can easily be split into day before driving to the Scottish Sea Life Gardens 8. Go to Elgol 9, close to
trips from Inveraray and Plockton. Sanctuary 5, to see the seals, the the cave that hid Bonnie Prince Charlie
aquarium and walk in the woods. and cross back to the mainland on the
Family Adventure Glenelg-Skye ferry to visit the romantic
From Inveraray 1, buy some picnic Follow A819, then join A85 north. Turn ruins of Eilean Donan Castle q.
provisions and visit the castle, with its off right on A828. Reverse to return.
splendid interiors, then head north to Castles and Skye From Plockton head to the Kyle of
Ben Cruachan Power Station 2, to go Enjoy Plockton’s w temperate climate Lochalsh and take A87, then A851 to
deep inside the mountain. Next, it’s a and pretty palm-lined harbour, then the castle gardens. Then follow the
short drive to Bonawe Iron Furnace cross the bridge to the Isle of Skye and drive instructions all the way back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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