Page 36 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

34 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Cornish Wreckers
As any Cornishman will tell you,
“wreckers” were really bounty-
seekers, not heartless criminals who
deliberately lured ships onto the
rocks by placing a decoy light on
the shore. The Cornish coast, with
its jagged rocks and fierce currents,
scarcely needed any help to cause
shipwrecks as hundreds of boats
floundered on it over the years. On
stormy nights, wreckers would be
ready and waiting to plunder any
cargo, though responsible ones
would rescue the sailors first. Often
wrecking led to battles with local
“preventive men” – customs officers.

7 The Lizard Peninsula
The tip of this windswept peninsula is
England’s most southerly point. Paths
trace around the cliffs of this jagged
coastline, dropping to secluded coves
and harbours. Rare wildflowers grow
Above The Castle, dominating St Michael’s on the heathland where ponies graze.
Mount, off Marazion Top right Picturesque 5 Mousehole At much-photographed Kynance
harbour and granite houses at Mousehole Cornwall; TR19 6SD Cove, tilted pinnacles of rock stand
Right Sign at Lizard Point, mainland England’s This quintessential Cornish fishing like giants paddling in the sea off the
most southerly point village – pronounced “mouzel” – with sandy beach surrounded by cliffs.
a granite sea-walled harbour held At the end of the A3083, the Lizard
WHERE TO STAY over 400 pilchard fishing boats in the Point Lighthouse is the most power-
19th century. A tangle of steep ful in England, visible for 34 km
AROUND THE LIZARD PENINSULA narrow lanes lead down past pretty (21 miles) in one of the world’s busiest
Mullion Cove Hotel cottages to waterside pubs, cafés shipping lanes. In summer, basking
moderate–expensive and shops. Mousehole Bird sharks can often be seen just offshore.
Originally built for wealthy Victorians, Sanctuary on Raginnis Hill cares for Back up the A3083, to the right,
this gleaming white clifftop hotel injured sea birds (open daily). tucked below the cliffs, lies Cadgwith.
enjoys extensive sea views.
Mullion Cove, TR12 7EP; 01326 240 ª Return to the B3315 to Newlyn and Here, pretty whitewashed thatched
328; www.mullion-cove.co.uk join A30 (towards Truro). Turn right to cottages surround a tiny harbour
Marazion at the junction with A394. whose fishermen entered the record
AROUND TREBAH Follow signs to St Michael’s Mount. books in the 19th century by landing
Budock Vean expensive 1.3 million pilchards in one day. Now
Large hotel in vast parklands beside the 6 St Michael’s Mount they mainly catch lobster and crab,
Helford River. Award-winning restaurant,
sports activities and natural health spa. near Penzance, Cornwall; TR17 0EF which can be sampled with a glass of
Helford Passage, Mawnan Smith, TR11 This islet, looming out of the sea near real ale at the Cadgwith Cove Inn.
5LG (1 km/0.5 mile from Trebah); Marazion, is dramatically topped by Drive through Ruan Minor and
01326 250 288; www.budockvean.co.uk a 12th-century castle (open Sun–Fri Kuggar, turning left onto the B3293
ST JUST-IN-ROSELAND Apr–Oct) – in turn a church, priory, to go past the Goonhilly Earth
Round House Barns moderate fortress and now private home. At Station. On the open heathland
A Cornish cream tea greets guests at low tide it can be reached on foot stands a cluster of huge, futuristic
this award-winning B&B in a tastefully across a causeway first used by satellite dishes – the largest is
converted 17th-century barn. pilgrims in the Middle Ages; a small 32 m (105 ft) in diameter. The site,
St Just-in-Roseland, TR2 5JJ; ferry runs from Marazion at other chosen for its clear views, clean air
01872 580 038;
www.roundhousebarnholidays.co.uk times. A cobbled path leads up to the and lack of nearby buildings to
castle past terraced gardens. Home cause electrical interference, is
ST MAWES of the St Aubyn family since 1660, it used for radio astronomy and
Tresanton expensive has a mix of architectural styles. deep space communications.
Award-winning hotel stylishly created ª Return to the A394 to Helston, then Carrying on the B3293, turn off right
in a cluster of old houses. Rooms and
restaurant have sea views. turn right on the A3083 to the Lizard to Gweek. Children of all ages will love
27 Lower Castle Road, TR2 5DR; 01326 Peninsula. Turn right at signs for the Gweek Seal Sanctuary (open daily).
270 055; www.tresanton.com Kynance Cove after Mullion. Above Helford estuary, the sanctuary
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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