Page 37 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain
P. 37

DRIVE 1: Lizard Point and the South Cornwall Coast  35


       cares for sick or injured seals. There    through a 17th-century lych (roofed)
       are also otters, ponies, goats and    gateway or via the beach, is notable
       a children’s play area.  for its subtropical plants and borders
       ª From Gweek carry on towards   of granite stones inscribed with
       Falmouth; at Constantine turn right at   Biblical texts and hymns.
       sign to Mawnan Smith where Trebah   ª Head south on A3078 to St Mawes.
       Gardens (and car park) are signed.   Fork right for castle; park in car park.
                               0 St Mawes
                               Cornwall; TR2 5DE
                               Terraces of old cob cottages and smart
                               modern houses command glorious
                               seaviews from their position above the
                               harbour. The views and two sandy
                               beaches make St Mawes a popular
                               spot for holidays and retirement, as
                               well as for sailing and walking. The
                               castle, the best preserved of Henry   Above The beautiful and luxuriant gardens at
                               VIII’s coastal fortresses, has gun ports   Trebah, near Mawnan Smith
                               on the three huge circular bastions
                               overlooking the busy Carrick Roads
                               waterway, a large natural harbour
                               created during the Ice Age.
       Above Winged cherub statue in the leafy, green   ª Head north on A3078. After Ruan
       Lost Gardens of Heligan  High Lanes, turn right (signed Portloe)   EAT AND DRINK
                               and follow signs to Mevagissey through
       8 Trebah Gardens        Tippetts Shop and Tubbs Mill. The   MOUSEHOLE
       Mawnan Smith, Cornwall; TR11 5JZ   gardens (with car park) are to the right.  2 Fore Street moderate
                                                        French-style bistro noted for its fresh
       In the 1830s, prosperous shipping                fish, interesting puddings and home-
       agent and enthusiastic horticulturalist   q Lost Gardens of Heligan  made bread; courtyard in summer.
       Charles Fox collected a wealth of   Pentewan, Cornwall; PL26 6EN   2 Fore Street, TR19 6QU; 01736 731
       sub-tropical plants and trees from   The “lost” gardens of Heligan (open   164; www.2forestreet.co.uk
       around the world to create Trebah   daily) were restored in the 1990s after   THE LIZARD PENINSULA
       Gardens (open daily). This lush   75 years of neglect. Their original   Black Swan Inn inexpensive
       paradise, set in a wooded ravine   designs, laid out between 1766 and   Friendly Cornish pub offering a large
       which descends 61 m (200 ft) to a   World War I, included Italian and   selection of real ales. Menu includes
       private beach on Helford River has   New Zealand gardens, summer   traditional English puddings served with
       tumbling waterfalls, a pool of giant   houses, a rocky ravine, crystal grotto   custard, ice cream or clotted cream.
                                                        Gweek, TR12 6TU; 01326 221 502;
       koi carp and great banks of blue and   and wishing well. Just as remarkable   www.blackswangweek.pub
       white hydrangeas. Paths lead under   is the story of Tim Smit, the force
       the shaded canopy of giant gunnera   behind this restoration (and the Eden   AROUND TREBAH
       leaves and through a bamboo maze   Project, see p36), who took it on after   Red Lion inexpensive
       and flower borders.     a successful career in pop music.  Picturesque thatched pub (1545) with
                                                        three atmospheric bars offers bar
       ª Return to Mawnan Smith, follow   ª Turn right out of the gardens then   lunches and restaurant in the evening.
       signs to Penryn. Turn left onto A39.   left onto B3273 towards St Austell. Turn   Goldmartin Square, Mawnan Smith,
       Next take B3289 right to the King   right to Charlestown.  TR11 5EP (1 km/0.5 mile from Trebah);
       Harry Ferry (toll) across the Fal and            01326 250 026; www.redlioncornwall.
       back on B3289 to St Just-in-Roseland.            com
                                                        ST MAWES
       9 St Just-in-Roseland                            The Victory inexpensive
       Cornwall; TR2 5HY                                Traditional pub with bar meals and
       Designated an Area of Outstanding                first-floor restaurant with terrace.
                                                        Grove Hill, St Mawes, TR2 5DQ; 01326
       Natural Beauty for its leafy lanes and           270 324; www.victoryinn.co.uk
       seascapes, the Roseland peninsula
       includes St Just-in-Roseland whose               HELIGAN
       13th-century St Justus Church with               Lobbs Farm Shop moderate
       its squat crenellated tower nestles              This shop by the Gardens’ entrance sells
                                                        fresh Cornish produce and picnic fare.
       beside a wooded tidal creek, framed              Pentewan, PL26 6EN; 01726 844 411;
       by trees – a truly picture-postcard   Above The Church of St Justus, with its beautiful   www.lobbsfarmshop.com; closed Sun
       scene. The churchyard, entered either   garden in St Just-in-Roseland   & Mon Jan–Feb
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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