Page 38 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

36 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Above left Close up of one of the biome
domes, the Eden Project Above centre w Charlestown a huge disused china clay quarry
Inside the “Temperate” biome at the Eden Charlestown, St Austell; PL25 3NJ into a “living theatre of plants and
Project Above right Picnic area outside the Soon after china clay was discovered people”. The result is a series of
Shipwreck & Heritage Centre, Charlestown 250 years ago in the downs north of incredible geodesic “biomes”, the
St Austell, a major industry evolved. largest greenhouses in the world, in
VISITING FOWEY The “white gold” was exported which different environments have
around the world from Charlestown been created – rainforest, temperate
Tourist Information dock, formerly just a small fishing and arid, all surrounded by gardens.
5 South Street, PL23 1AR; 01726 833 harbour. The Shipwreck & Heritage There is also a programme of
616; www.fowey.co.uk
Centre (Mar–Oct, open daily) on the quay- seasonal events and exhibitions.
Ferry Services side evokes local history through ª Rejoin the A390, turning right onto
Take the Bodinnick car ferry, and then tableaux, models and photographs; the A3082 to Fowey. Parking can be
follow signs to Polruan Ferry (car park).
The passenger ferry crosses to Fowey visitors can also enter dark tunnels found near the Tourist Information
every 15 minutes. The last ferry back is through which clay was conveyed Centre on Albert Quay. For a car-free
at 11pm (7pm Oct–Apr). www.looe. in trucks to the dock-side. Today, visit, see left.
org/ferries.html the dock is quiet once more, home
to three full-size replicas of historic r Fowey
WHERE TO STAY sailing ships, used on film locations. Cornwall; PL23 1AR
Tours of ships available when in Two ruined blockhouses, one in
AROUND THE EDEN PROJECT dock (Easter–Oct, open daily). Fowey (pronounced “foy”), the other
Boscundle Manor expensive ª Turn right and take A390 through St across the estuary in Polruan, are a
Comfortable 18th-century country Austell. Follow signs to Eden Project. reminder of medieval times when
house with gardens and indoor pool.
Boscundle, PL25 3RL (1.5 km/1 mile a defensive chain stretched between
south of the Eden Project); 01726 813 e The Eden Project them to demast any undesirable ships
557; www.boscundlemanor.co.uk Bodelva, St Austell, Cornwall; PL24 2SG trying to enter the deep anchorage.
Moving on from Heligan, Tim Smit’s Today the river is busy with pleasure
FOWEY
next visionary idea was the Eden craft, and neat Edwardian terraces
Old Quay House expensive
Elegant modern interiors and an award- Project (open daily) which has turned linked by narrow streets climb up
winning restaurant overlooking the
estuary grace this 150-year-old hotel. Walking on Dartmoor
28 Fore Street, PL23 1AQ; 01726 833 Much of Dartmoor National Park can
302; www.theoldquayhouse.com; no only be explored on foot by fairly
under-12s experienced walkers. However, the
POLPERRO going is easier around the edges,
where gentle woodland footpaths
Old Millhouse Inn inexpensive run beside small rivers, for example,
Comfortable seven-room B&B in a along Lydford Gorge and by the East
16th-century mill and later a bakery, Dart at Bellever. The Princetown
now converted into a cosy pub.
Mill Hill, PL13 2RP; 01503 272 362; Visitor Centre (Tavistock Road,
Princetown, PL20 6QF) is a good
www.theoldmillhouseinn.co.uk
starting point for circular walks,
TAVISTOCK detailed in a free leaflet; other walks
Bedford Hotel inexpensve start from visitor centres at Haytor
and Postbridge. In addition, there is
This stately building, on the site of a
Benedictine abbey, was once the a year-round programme of guided
residence of the Dukes of Bedford. walks graded by length and difficulty,
1 Plymouth Road, PL19 8BB; 01822 613 Above Historic Square Sail Rigger at Charlestown see www.dartmoor.gov.uk.
221; www.bedford-hotel.co.uk harbour, near St Austell
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
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