Page 39 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain
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DRIVE 1: Lizard Point and the South Cornwall Coast  37


       from the busy water’s edge. The   wheeling and crying overhead, this
       town’s focal point is the 15th-century   13th-century former pilchard-fishing
       St Fimbarrus Church with a Norman   village is almost too pretty for its own
       font. The nearby Fowey Museum    good – it gets very busy in summer.
       (1 South St; open Mon–Fri Apr–Sep)   ª Leave Polperro on A387 (signed
       reveals local literary      Looe), turning left onto B3359.
       connections including        At the junction with A390,
       Daphne du Maurier. Look       turn right to Tavistock
       for the original Elizabethan   (40 km/25 miles). Park
       panelling and ceiling in      in Bedford Square.
       the Ship Inn (Trafalgar
       Square). Take a boat trip    y Tavistock
       aboard Moogie (Town Quay;   Plaque outside the   Devon; PL19 OAE   Above View over the Tamar Valley, seen from
       07792 625 908) to see the   Town Hall, Tavistock  Gateway to Dartmoor   Kit Hill near Tavistock
       many cliff-nesting sea birds   National Park, Tavistock
       and, perhaps dolphins, seals    became a prosperous market town   VISITING TAVISTOCK
       or even basking sharks.     during the 19th century, thanks to the   Tourist Information
       ª Take the Bodinnick car ferry and   discovery of copper in mines owned   Bedford Square, PL19 0HE; 01822 612
       follow signs to Polperro. The village is   by the 7th Duke of Bedford. As a   938; www.tavistockonline.co.uk
       car free, so park at the top, then either   result, he paid for the remodelling of
       walk down to the harbour or ride in   the town hall in grand Gothic style   EAT AND DRINK
       one of the “trams”.     and built other buildings around
                               Bedford Square in the local grey-  FOWEY
                               green Hurdwick stone, including the   Sams moderate
                               Bedford Hotel and the Pannier Market.   Popular small restaurant specializing in
                                                        seafood and American diner-style dishes.
                               A small local history museum (Easter–  20 Fore Street, PL23 1AQ; 01726 832 273;
                               Oct, open Mon–Sat) is housed in the   www.samscornwall.co.uk
                               monastery gatehouse on the square.
                                To the east lies the wild moorland of   POLPERRO
                               Dartmoor, populated by ponies and   Three Pilchards inexpensive
                                                        Traditional old pub with a small roof
                               sheep and dominated by granite tors.   garden; renowned for its ales and food.
                               In the centre, Princetown, famous for   Quay Road, PL13 2QZ; 01503 272 233;
                               its prison built in Napoleonic times,    www.threepilchardspolperro.co.uk
                               is the highest town in England. Near   Couch’s moderate
       Above The small ferry town of Polruan,   the edges lie interesting old market   Smart restaurant that mixes old-world
       looking across the estuary towards Fowey  towns such as Moretonhampstead   charm with modern influences.
                               and Chagford as well as atmospheric   Big Green, PL13 2QT; 01503 272 554;
       t Polperro              villages like Buckland-in-the-Moor   www.couchspolperro.com; open May–
                                                        Sep Mon–Sat, Oct–Apr Mon & Thu–Sat
       Cornwall; PL13 2QR      and Drewsteignton, both with pretty
       A single main street of whitewashed   thatched stone cottages and small   AROUND TAVISTOCK
       cottages, old mill houses, inns and   granite churches. The 36-m (120-ft)   Copper Penny Inn inexpensive
       boathouses, with the little River Pol   tower of St Pancras Church at   18th-century village pub with real ales
       beside them, runs down a wooded   Widecombe-in-the-Moor, a village   and meals based on local produce.
                                                        Gulworthy, PL19 8NT (4 km/2.5 miles
       valley to the fishing harbour and tiny   immortalized by the folk song about   west of Tavistock on the A390); 01822
       stone Roman bridge. With seagulls   its fair, is a landmark for miles around.  833 288
        DAY TRIP OPTIONS       Follow the B3306 from St Ives on to    Use the A3083; then take the B3293
        As well as the beauty of its coastline,   St Just and then take the B3315.  to Goonhilly and Gweek and drive
        Cornwall has a wealth of superb               on to Trebah.
        gardens thanks to its mild climate.   The Lizard
                               The Lizard Peninsula 7 offers plenty   Harbours and Gardens
        Culture and Coast      of attractions for both kids and    Find the Lost Gardens of Heligan q
        Explore St Ives 1 and its galleries in   adults. Take a dip at Kynance Cove,   and then learn about shipwrecks in
        the morning, then grab a pasty and   visit the Lizard Lighthouse and have   Charlestown w. Tour the Eden Project
        head along the coast to pretty Zennor   lunch at Cadgwith. Drive past the   e before returning to Fowey to end
        2, Pendeen 3 and Cape Cornwall –   futuristic Goonhilly Earth Station    the day by the water’s edge r.
        for a clifftop picnic. Finish the day   to see the seals at Gweek. Then,    The B3273, A390 and A3082 connect
        watching the sun sink into the sea at   if there’s still time, explore the   Fowey to Heligan with Charlestown and
        the Minack Theatre, Porthcurno 4.   gardens at Trebah 8.   the Eden Project well signed on the way.

                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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