Page 111 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Around Colón The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus 109
splendid views across the water and its sprinkling of tree-topped islands before undulating
through agricultural land to the rarely visited coastal communities of the Costa Abajo.
Meanwhile, anyone interested in marine ecology should consider heading to the coast
northeast of Colón to visit Isla Galeta, where the Smithsonian has a research centre.

Isla Galeta marine research and education centre
Isla Galeta • Tues–Sun 9am–3pm • $5; groups of less than ten people need to pay the guide’s fee ($20) • T212 8191, Wstri.si.edu • 2
No public transport, but a taxi from Colón including wait time will cost around $20, or it’s easily accessible by car (see the website)
About 12km northeast of Colón lies Isla Galeta, which is actually a headland and
home to the Smithsonian’s marine research and education centre. A far lesser known
attraction than Isla Barro Colorado, the centre is more on the scale of Punta Culebra
(see p.68), its main attraction a modest boardwalk through the mangroves, where crabs
and tree snakes can be spotted. There’s also an interpretive centre and a handful of
exhibits, including touch pools and the 15m skeleton of a Bride’s whale. Given the
cost of a taxi here, it’s only worthwhile if you have your own transport.

The Atlantic locks and around
Eight kilometres southwest of Colón, accessible by bus (and a walk) or taxi, are the Canal’s
Atlantic locks. First up are the new mammoth three-chambered Agua Clara Locks for the
Neopanamax ships, overlooked by a visitors’ centre. Beyond lie the famous Gatún Locks,
the largest and most impressive of the original locks; comprising three sets of double lock
chambers, they stretch for 3km – if you include the approach walls – which made them
the greatest concrete structure in the world until the Hoover Dam’s completion in 1930.
Unfortunately, the viewing platform has now been closed, but as you drive across the swing
bridge below the locks you are afforded a rare close-up of the tremendous studded steel
plate breastplates of the lock’s mitre gates – an experience which will be lost once the new
Atlantic Bridge across the Canal has been completed (due 2018). To your left, a couple of
kilometres west along the road after crossing the bridge below the locks is Gatún Dam.

Centro de Visitantes de Agua Clara
Lago Gatún, on the eastern side of the new locks • Daily 8am–4pm • $15 • T443 5727
The Centro de Visitantes de Agua Clara overlooks the three new larger lock chambers
and the adjacent water-saving basins, with the original Gatún Locks in the background
– bring your binoculars. Although you’re further from the action than at Miraflores,
the elevated position on the side of a hill affords a panoramic view of both the locks
and Lago Gatún, which you don’t get at the other sites. For the steep entry fee, you also
get two short videos (in English or Spanish) and access to a very short interpretive trail
through a patch of rainforest. There’s also a snack bar, a tourist-priced restaurant, and
lots of shade and seating for picnics.

Gatún Dam
Despite being the longest in the world when it was built, at 2.3km, and a brilliant
technical achievement, the earthen Gatún Dam is not as visually impressive as it should
be, though the curved concrete spillway at its centre can be an awe-inspiring sight
when the floodgates are opened following heavy rains.
arriVal and deParTure The aTlanTiC lOCKs and arOund
By bus Catch any Costa Abajo bus from Colón (see p.107). By taxi A taxi from Colón will take you to the Agua Clara
For the Centro de Visitantes de Agua Clara, ask the driver to visitors’ centre (around $20, including wait time; around
let you off before you cross the Canal and walk 2.5km up $30 to include the dam). Taxis waiting around the cruise
the access road to your left. For the dam, take the first left terminal are always more expensive.
after the Gatún Locks and walk 2km.

090-125_Panama_3_Ch2.indd 109 30/06/17 11:50 am