Page 112 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

110 The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus Around Colón
Fuerte San Lorenzo
Mouth of the Río Chagres, 13km northwest of Gatún Locks • Daily 8am–4pm • $5
Perched high on a rocky promontory, standing guard over the mouth of the Río Chagres,
the well-preserved ruins of FUERTE SAN LORENZO bear witness to its importance during
Spanish colonial times. Its spectacular location, commanding views of both the brooding
river and the glistening Caribbean, coupled with its isolation and forest surroundings,
make it a far more evocative place than the more accessible and more visited Portobelo
2 (see p.112). Along with the forts at Portobelo, the place was declared a World Heritage
Site in 1980 and is now a popular destination on the cruise-ship circuit, but if you get
there early (or visit during the rainy season) you can often have the place to yourself.
The fort is set within the 120-square-kilometre Área Protegida San Lorenzo, amid a
swathe of secondary forest and swampland, which provide excellent birdwatching.
Though the only developed trail lies close to the village of Achiote (see opposite), a
wander down any of the tracks off the road to the fort with your binoculars is likely to
be productive. Some areas are still out of bounds on account of unexploded mines that
the US military left behind after deciding it was too expensive to clear – there are
warning signs about the dangers but they are not everywhere, so stick to the paths.
Brief history
Construction of the original sea-level earth-and-wood fort began in 1595 to protect
loot-laden Spanish boats sailing down the Chagres to Portobelo from attack by foreign
vessels. Though Francis Drake failed to take the place in 1596, it fell to one of Henry
Morgan’s privateers in 1670, enabling Morgan and his band to pass unhindered up the
river and destroy Panama City. The fort was rebuilt in coral stone in the 1680s in its
present cliff-top location, where it was eventually ruined in 1740 by the British.
Although San Lorenzo was rebuilt and further strengthened, the fortifications were
never really tested again, though they were used as part of the US military defences in
World War II – note the still visible antiaircraft platform next to the tower.
Exploring the fort
As you cross over the drawbridge (not the original one) and through the smart, squat
stone-and-brick guardhouse, the main entrance to the fort, you come out onto the
esplanade, which offers the best view of the fort and served to collect rainwater that was
channelled off into a water tank over the parapet in front of you. The vast grassy area
below is the parade ground, containing the ruined troops’ and officers’ quarters. Taking
the ramp down, follow the wall along to the ruins of the powder magazine and the
tower built into the side of the hill, now scarcely more than a deep hole filled with litter.
Though the adjacent wall parapets and cannons have now gone, the view is as it always
was, and it’s easy to picture watchmen anxiously gazing out towards the horizon for
enemy ships. Before climbing back up towards the guardhouse, peer inside some of the
many remarkably preserved vaults underneath the esplanade, used to store equipment
and food and, much later, prisoners. Crossing the drawbridge once more you’ll find
yourself on the exterior platform, with the one surviving sentry box to the left. Here the
parapet is still intact, as are the nine cannons pointing out towards the putative enemy.
arriVal and deParTure FuerTe san lOrenZO
On a tour With no public transport to San Lorenzo, your at the Shelter Bay Marina (see p.108), or explore more of
best bet is to go on a tour – Ecocircuitos (see p.76) runs day- the protected area. Note that to cross the Gatún Locks you
trips from Panama City (approximately $210), via the can use the swing bridge or get a roll-on roll-off car ferry,
Atlantic-side locks. just north of the bridge. Once over the Canal, take the well-
By taxi A taxi (including waiting time at the fort) from signposted road straight ahead towards Shelter Bay
Colón will cost about $70. (formerly the US base Fort Sherman). After crossing the
By car Renting a car allows you to stop off at the Agua remains of excavations made for the French canal, the road
Clara Locks and Gatún Dam on the way, enjoy a bite to eat continues for 12km, reaching a checkpoint at the entry to

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