Page 114 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

112 The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus Portobelo
free) along the more open areas of the main road. If you’re willing to dodge the
occasional speeding bus or truck, you’ll get a chance to see brilliant chestnut-
mandibled and keel-billed toucans, blue-headed parrots and beautiful blue cotingas.
arriVal and deParTure aChiOTe
By bus From Colón, take the bus bound for Miguel de Tours To visit the reserve, you can arrange a guide for
la Borda (6.30am–7pm, approximately every 45min; hiking or birdwatching (around $30); contact Centro El
2 45min–1hr to Achiote; 2hr 30min to Miguel de la Borda) Tucán (see below), which can also organize homestays and
or, more commonly, Río Indio, also confusingly marked
a visit to the local coffee farm ($2) in the harvesting season
“Costa Abajo”. The last bus back to Colón passes through (Dec–Jan).
Achiote from Miguel de la Borda at around 4pm.
aCCOmmOdaTiOn and eaTinG
La Cascá Main road, towards the far end of the village. and mosquito screens) with shared cold-water showers
This inexpensive community restaurant serves up tasty, and kitchen. They also have a cabaña that sleeps up to six
filling food – it’s often a case of being offered whatever’s in people, sharing the communal kitchen. Mobile coverage is
the pot that day. Daily 7am–7pm. intermittent; if you fail to make contact in advance you can
Centro El Tucán Main road at the village entrance usually find someone to let you in if you arrive before
T6626 9790 or T6091 3055, Wcentroeltucan.org. nightfall. Camping $5, dorms $12, cabaña $50
The centre has camping space plus two basic dorms (fans

Piña to Miguel de la Borda
There are regular buses from Colón to Miguel de la Borda, passing through Piña (6.30am–6pm; every 45min; 2hr 30min); boats to Coclé
del Norte cost around $15/person, and a road is planned
Beyond Achiote the road rises, twists and turns through pleasantly undulating
pastures before reaching the coast at the village of PIÑA. Here bracing winds and
waves batter the rugged coastline while treacherous currents throw up driftwood
and fishing debris on the black-streaked beaches. The coastal road meanders a
further 40km through a string of settlements to the village and river of MIGUEL DE
LA BORDA. Here, the truly adventurous can negotiate passage by boat to the small
community of Coclé del Norte, which maintains links with the rest of the country
via motorized dugout up the river of the same name to Coclecito, followed by a
colectivo to Penonomé (see pp.140–143). The boats leave infrequently, particularly
when the sea is rough (Nov–Feb).
There are currently no places to stay along this stretch of coast though, with a little
Spanish and perseverance, you can probably find a very basic bunk or hammock for the
night, or pay to pitch a tent.

Portobelo
In colonial times the scenically situated town of PORTOBELO was the most important
settlement on the isthmus after Panama City, since all the plunder from South
America passed through here en route for Spain. The main tourist sites are the
ruined fortresses, remnants of the conquistadors’ attempts to safeguard the treasure
from the envious grasp of pirates and privateers. A soldier’s-eye view across the
turquoise bay from the forts’ rusting Spanish cannons is one of the most popular
postcard images in Panama, conveying the impression of a remote military outpost
surrounded by dense vegetation – it therefore comes as a shock to find the forts
smack in the middle of an economically deprived modern town, with dilapidated
houses propped up against the historical ruins and kids playing football in what was
once a parade ground. The town itself is mostly squeezed along a thin strip of land
between the main road and the bay, which spills into the Caribbean, and is easily
walkable. A half-day provides ample time to explore the colonial relics, leaving you

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