Page 126 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)
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CITIES Less-Explored
Hong Kong
Hong Kong is a vibrant East-meets-West destination of world-class dining, shopping,
and nightlife, but its appeal reaches far beyond the showpiece Victoria Harbour
ABOVE Parade at Disneyland Hong Kong
Special Administrative Region of China” (historically FORGET THE HONG
NEED TO KNOW
known as “The Fragrant Harbour’” in Chinese) KONG TOURIST TRAIL?
LOCATION Hong Kong is made bounced back and, since 2004, has seen booming
up of a southern peninsula of $)*/"
China, plus a cluster of 236 islands visitor numbers, largely from China. THE BUILD-UP Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour
POPULATION Hong Kong’s signature attractions span its is a stunning inlet of the South China Sea, and
Over 7 million /FX 5FSSJUPSJFT irregular topography. At sea level, riding the aging is awash with sights familiar even to those who
NUMBER OF VISITORS )0/( ,0/( green-and-white Star Ferry that chugs heroically have never visited the city. On opposite banks
Over 28 million are the high-rise districts of Kowloon and Hong
,PXMPPO between the Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong
DAYTIME
-BOUBV )POH ,POH Kong Island. From Central (Hong Kong Island),
TEMPERATURES Jan: *TMBOE *TMBOE Island remains a timeless pleasure. Crossing from
66°F (19°C); Apr: 77°F (25°C); Kowloon, gaze up into the hills behind Cesar Pelli’s the Peak Tram chugs up to Victoria Peak for
Jul: 88°F (31°C); Oct: 82°F (28°C) 4PVUI $IJOB 4FB stunning panoramas across the harbor, city, and
soaring Two IFC Tower, I. M. Pei’s angular Bank of
hills beyond, while the Star Ferry has been a
China headquarters and Lord Foster’s meccano-like Hong Kong icon since the 1890s.
Hong Kong is a city that raises expectations. HSBC building. The futuristic Peak Tower atop
Travelers’ anecdotes frequently drop phrases Victoria Peak affords the city’s best vantage point. THE LETDOWN This is a high-octane city, and
like “cultural kaleidoscope,” “gateway to China,” Day and night, visitors throng the harborside the urban pace is relentless. The huge influx of
“world-class hotels,” and “amazing dining culture,” malls, restaurants, and bars. A nightly laser and light mainland Chinese tourists can result in long
while Hong Kong raised its own bar by rebranding show adds an extra dimension of color and drama. weekend and high-season lines, especially at
itself as “Asia’s world city,” Even Chek Lap Kok Hong Kong is a renowned destination for diners Disneyland Hong Kong. Hawkers selling tailored
airport, built on reclaimed land on Lantau Island, and, while locals choose the dim sum snacks and men’s suits are persistent on Nathan Road and
near the Star Ferry terminal. Hong Kong is also a
is regularly rated the world’s best. double-boiled soups of Cantonese cuisine, the city’s
major corporate events and conference center,
It is in the evening, sitting in a chic cocktail food scene offers something for everyone, from a
and hotels can get booked up far in advance.
lounge overlooking Victoria Harbour, that Hong sumptuous array of mainland Chinese dishes to
Kong really delivers. The harbor view – flanked by pan-Asian and global fare. DOING IT ANYWAY? Traveling between
skyscrapers sculpted by leading global architects But there is much more to Hong Kong than its Kowloon and Central by taxi can be time-
and set against a backdrop of undulating hills – is well-trodden tourist routes and, by leaving behind consuming. A multi-purpose Octopus card (www.
magnificent. The density of these vertical steel the delights of the harbor, you’ll discover the city’s octopuscards.com), valid on the subway, trams,
pinnacles explains why movie director Christopher culture, history, and heritage, secluded spots and trains, buses, and even the ferry, is a speedy, more
Nolan chose Hong Kong to represent Gotham City green spaces, and experience the real Hong Kong. affordable way to get around Hong Kong.
in his Batman blockbuster The Dark Knight. When
night falls, Hong Kong is a mesmerizing vision, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
whether viewed in the flesh or on the silver screen.
In addition to its glamorous appeal, classy tourism Getting There and Around (www.bishopleihtl.com.hk) offers
Hong Kong’s Chek Lap Kok mid-range rooms in Central’s
marketing, and openness to globalization, Hong
airport (www.hongkongairport. Mid-Levels district. Hong Kong’s
Kong is remarkably resilient. When the territory was com) is located on Lantau Island. most quirky design-led hotel is
returned by the British to Chinese rule in 1997, Frequent Airport Express trains the Luxe Manor in Kowloon
concerns were raised about its future as a tourist run to Kowloon and Central (www.theluxemanor.com).
destination. Then the late 1990s Asian financial crisis Hong Kong Island in 24 mins. When to Go
and the 2003 SARS outbreak decimated its economy. Where to Eat Mar–Apr and Oct–Nov offer the
Yung Kee (www.yungkee.com. best climate. The long summer
On both occasions, the officially titled “Hong Kong
hk) serves unfussy Cantonese in between is very humid. Hotel
dim sum and a splendid roast accommodations are very hard
goose. Bo Innovation (www. to find during the week-long
boinnovation.com) offers more Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb) and
contemporary, deconstructed National Day (1 Oct) holidays.
Chinese cuisine, while two-
Michelin-starred French fare is Budget per Day for Two
the hallmark of L’Atelier de Joël Hong Kong is not a cheap
Robuchon (www.robuchon.hk). destination. Allow US$250–350
for a mid-range hotel, meals, and
Where to Stay
The pride of Hong Kong is transportation. Hotel rates rise
The Peninsula (www.peninsula. significantly at peak times.
com) on the waterfront of Website
Kowloon. Bishop Lei House www.discoverhongkong.com
ABOVE Peak Tower building at twilight
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