Page 130 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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CITIES FORGET MARRAKECH?

Fez THE BUILD-UP Ever since the budget airlines
started flying to Marrakech, the city has
experienced a tourism gold-rush. With its
colorful bazaars, year-round sun, fabulous
palaces, and designer-renovated riads, Marrakech
vs Marrakech quickly found itself billed as one of the world’s
most fashionable short-break destinations.

THE LETDOWN Marrakech is no longer the
bargain destination it once was. The tourists that
Marrakech may set the city-break crowd’s hearts aflutter, but Fez, Morocco’s throng the souks – often inappropriately dressed
ancient spiritual capital, really makes hearts throb for a Muslim country – are easy prey for shop
owners, who quickly inflate prices according to
customers’ perceived wallet sizes.

GOING ANYWAY? Timing is all: avoid the
over the centuries and is almost entirely free of motor
NEED TO KNOW hordes at the peak times of Christmas, New
vehicles. Its bent and narrow lanes are far better Year and Easter, as well as the scorching heat of
LOCATION Fez is situated in suited to mules and donkeys, which still work hard
northern Morocco, on the fertile high summer. Vary your clock once there too,
5BOHJFS
plains at the base of the Middle carrying everything from bags of cement to hitting the main Djemaa el-Fna, the central
Atlas Mountains square, late at night when it’s a locals-only scene.
3BCBU '&; televisions in and out of the medina. The medieval
POPULATION "UMBOUJD way of organizing a city also persists in Fez, with
0DF B O
1 million .030$$0
.BSSBLFDI each quarter having its own mosque, fountains,
DAYTIME
TEMPERATURES and communal bakeries, as well as areas dedicated
Jan: 48°F (9°C); Apr: 57°F to particular arts and crafts, such as slipper-making,
"-(&3*"
(14°C); Jul: 93°F (34°C);
Oct: 64°F (18°C) 8&45&3/ leatherwork, and the city’s famous fine embroidery.
4")"3"
Ancient though it is, Fez isn’t above learning a
few new tricks. Scores of its old townhouses are
Morocco’s capital city has shifted repeatedly over being turned into the riad guesthouses beloved
the centuries, according to the whim and power of foreign visitors, and a UNESCO-supported
of the dynasty of the day. These days, Rabat might rehabilitation scheme has provided funding and
host the embassies and Marrakech the tourists, but expertise to help restore threatened and crumbling
the majority of Moroccans will still point to Fez as parts of this World Heritage city. Government plans
the country’s spiritual and cultural heart. to boost Moroccan tourist numbers past 10 million ABOVE Tourist searching for bargains in a busy souk in
Fez was Muslim Morocco’s first capital, and in mean that there’s not a lot of time left to get here Marrakech, Morocco
2008 the city celebrated its 1,200th birthday with before the crowds do.
remarkable understatement. But unlike their glitzy
Marrakechi rivals to the south, Fassis don’t feel the MAIN CITY SIGHTS
need to shout about their city. Just one day in the Talaa Kebira The medina’s main street leads visitors
buzzing warren of the old city is all most visitors to the heart of the old city, from the Bab Bou Jeloud
need to be instantly hooked. Exploring the Fez Gate past mosques, markets, and fountains, and an
medina is undoubtedly one of the Arab world’s unending stream of people and pack animals. PRACTICAL INFORMATION
greatest travel experiences. Its dusty streets are Bou Inania Medersa One of the finest buildings
gloriously alive, and its sights, sounds, and smells in Fez, this 14th-century theological college is a Getting There and Around visitors an excellent choice of
Fez Saïss airport has direct accommodations for different
have the force of a battering ram on the senses. masterclass in Moroccan craftsmanship. Its
connections to many major budgets. Riad Lune et Soleil
The city has changed very little over time, and is sumptuous decorations include intricate mosaics, European cities, mainly through (www.riadluneetsoleil.com)
today the most complete and unspoiled medieval woodcarvings, and decorative plasterwork. budget airlines. Other flights is a charming and eccentrically
Islamic settlement in the world. Surrounded by hills Tanneries Moroccan leather is produced here the come via Casablanca, which is decorated guesthouse,
54 miles (87 km) southwest of
on all sides, Fez has been unable to expand much old-fashioned – and highly smelly – way, with skins renowned for its excellent food.
Rabat. Fez has excellent road
submerged in open-air vats full of dyes made from and rail connections with the When to Go
indigo, poppies, and saffron. The colorful results are rest of Morocco. Spring and fall are the most
on sale throughout the medina. Where to Eat pleasant times to visit the city
weather-wise. Winter is cold
Batha Museum This museum, housed in a beautiful Fez is famous in Morocco for its and rainy, while summer heat
19th-century palace with a classical Andalucian culinary heritage, and is the can be uncomfortable.
home of b’stilla, a sweet-savory
garden, holds a fine collection of Moroccan artifacts
dish of filo pastry stuffed with Budget per Day for Two
from the heyday of the great imperial dynasties. nuts and pigeon. The restaurant From US$90 upwards,
Festival of World Sacred Music This cross-cultural at La Maison Bleue hotel (www. depending on accommodations.
musical festival was founded in response to the maisonbleue.com) offers one of The best riads charge up to
first Gulf War and is now a huge international the city’s best dining experiences. US$160 per room per night.
success, attracting world-class performers for grand Where to Stay Website
The boutique hotel riad scene is www.visitmorocco.com/index.
concerts and intimate recitals. The week-long
ever-expanding in Fez, offering php/eng/I-am-going-to/Fez
ABOVE The Bab Bou Jeloud Gate at dusk, Fez, Morocco festival takes place every year in June (see p56).

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