Page 137 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

CHAPTER: CITIES STAGE CREATIVE TEAM LONDON MANAGERS
EDITOR DESIGN EDITOR DESIGN

*state stage: roughs/1sts/2nds/finals *editors & design, pls initial & date

305

FORGET PRAGUE? CITIES

THE BUILD-UP Prague needs no introduction.
Rīga beautiful cities in Europe, the Czech capital
Widely considered to be one of the most
offers a fascinating blend of Bohemian,
Germanic, and Jewish cultural influences and
serves as an enduring symbol of the rich and
cosmopolitan history of Central Europe. Its
captivating 18th-century streetscapes and
vs Prague majestic medieval churches, synagogues, and
mansions have survived largely untouched.

THE LETDOWN In many respects Prague’s
Prague may have hogged the limelight since the Velvet Revolution of 1989, but tourist industry is a victim of its own success:
taxi drivers are notorious for overcharging,
the Baltic gem that is Rīga gives the Czech capital a run for its tourist money money-changers routinely misrepresent their
rates, and the Old Town Square is awash with
tacky souvenir shops and postcard stalls. It is
now the sixth most-visited city in Europe, and
the elegant streets throng with tourists. The city
NEED TO KNOW the Town Hall (Rātslaukums), which represented has also, rather unfortunately, become a favorite
the merchants (the original building was destroyed
&450/*" destination for British stag parties.
LOCATION Rīga, the capital of in World War II and has since been replaced by a
Latvia, is located on the Baltic coast
at the mouth of the Daugava River (VMG PG modern office building). By the late 19th century, GOING ANYWAY? The crowds are at their
3ūHB
POPULATION Rīga was the third-largest city in the Russian worst at Easter, Christmas, and in the summer,
Around 750,000 - "57*"
3Ī(" Empire, and evidence of this prosperity can be so aim to go in fall or winter. To avoid being
VISITORS PER YEAR -JFQÍKB seen in its many Art Nouveau buildings, which are scammed, change money in banks or use ATMs,
Around 825,500 %BVHBWQJMT
DAYTIME regarded as the best in Europe. World War II saw and try to avoid using taxis altogether.
TEMPERATURES -*5)6"/*" much of the city devastated, but extensive
Jan: 27°F (-3°C); Apr: 43°F (6°C); restoration work has left the Old Town’s streets and
Jul: 63°F (17°C); Oct: 45°F (7°C) 7JMOJVT
courtyards looking much as they did centuries ago.
An excellent collection of museums reflects
It would be hard to deny the fairy-tale appeal of the city’s cultural standing, not least during the
Prague’s Old Town, but as it attracts ever-growing 19th-century growth of national sentiment, which
hordes of tourists – and the hawkers who prey on culminated in the brief existence of an independent
them – the city risks losing its Cinderella glamor Latvia between the two world wars. Today, with this
and being revealed as more of an ugly sister. It’s independence regained, Rīga finds itself capital of
hardly surprising that savvy travelers have been a nation eager to engage with the world around it
looking for “the new Prague” for some time now. – NATO and EU membership included – and to ABOVE Crowds of sightseers on the streets below the castle,
With Rīga, they might just have found it. introduce visitors to its own brand of Baltic charm. Prague, Czech Republic
Long the most lively and cosmopolitan of
the Baltic capitals, and with a rich history as a MAIN CITY SIGHTS
mercantile center, Rīga refused to let its merits Town Hall Square This square is the focal point of
go unnoticed when the Soviet Union collapsed the Old Town. Its step-gabled House of Blackheads, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
in 1991, and instead plunged headlong into its which was damaged in the war and rebuilt in the
new-found independence. Today, this medieval city, 1990s, once housed a guild of unmarried merchants. Getting There and Around considering a 20-minute tram
known for its pretty gables, turrets, and steeples, is At the edge of the square is the somber but Rīga airport is connected to many ride to the upmarket Mežaparks
European cities, and ferries run district for the excellent Homestay
also a dynamic, thriving metropolis looking to the fascinating Museum of the Occupation of Latvia.
from Stockholm in Sweden and guesthouse (www.homestay.lv).
future, with a boisterous nightlife to match. Funky Dome Cathedral The largest church in the Baltics Lübeck in Germany to the city. The owners are welcoming and
cafés, sophisticated restaurants, and edgy was founded in 1211 and exhibits a variety of You can also access Rīga on trains helpful, the rooms are comfortable,
boutiques line the cobbled streets here, where old architectural styles due to various extensions over from Lithuania and Russia. The and the breakfasts are superb.
and new come together with undeniable charm. the centuries. The interior might be plain, but it Old Town and Art Nouveau When to Go
District are best explored on foot. The long, warm summer days
Rīga’s beautiful, well-preserved Old Town serves boasts an ornate 17th-century pulpit.
Registered taxis have yellow see Rīga at its most engaging,
as a constant reminder of the city’s fascinating past. Art Nouveau District Art Nouveau buildings are registration plates. but also its most busy. Winter
In the 13th and 14th centuries, under the rule of scattered around Rīga, but the best examples lie near Where to Eat can be gloomy and windy here,
Baltic German crusaders, it became a member of the Old Town along Alberta, Strēlnieku and Elizabetes Latvian cuisine is hearty. It was but the cultural life of the city
the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities, streets. The inventive and symbolic work of Mikhail traditionally based on soups and continues, and on clear, snowy
porridges, but nowadays meat – days, it can look striking.
the legacy of which can be seen in the many Eisenstein – father of the renowned Soviet film
particularly pork – is the focus. Budget per Day for Two
medieval merchants’ houses that line the streets. director, Sergei – is particularly popular with visitors. Sample dishes cheaply at the From US$75. Food and drink
At this time, the city’s administrative headquarters Open-Air Ethnographic Museum This site on the popular Alus Sēta (tel. +371 (including alcohol) is very
were based in three buildings: the magnificent edge of the city draws together homesteads, 6722 2431) in the town center. reasonably priced, so the major
expense will be accommodations.
Dome Cathedral (Doma baznīca), which represented churches, and other buildings from all over Latvia, Where to Stay
the Catholic Church; the turreted Rīga Castle (Rīgas offering a fascinating glimpse of the country for The city has accommodations for Website
all budgets, but it is worth www.rigatourism.lv
pils), which represented the German nobility; and visitors without time to go beyond Rīga.

US304-305_cit_riga.indd 305 14/4/09 15:52:56
16/4/09 12:35:29
304-305_cit_riga.indd 305