Page 135 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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CITIES

Canal-side residences and vendors selling their wares on the
promenade, Riva degli Schiavoni, in Castello

The monastery of San Lazzaro degli Armeni surrounded by manicured Castello Walk
gardens on San Lazzaro island
Doorway leading into the atmospheric 15th-century osteria
Cantina Do Mori
Lagoon Islands The less-visited Castello district that accounts for
Osterie the city’s far eastern section is perfect for a
fascinating walking tour via quiet squares and
Far-flung patches of marshy land transformed neighborhood cafés. A stroll along waterside
into fishing villages, monasteries, asylums, Found all over town, these traditional watering Riva degli Schiavoni, named after Slav sailors from
hospitals, and market gardens, the islands in spots are convivial places for an ombra (glass of the Dalmatian Coast, leads past a procession of
the Venice Lagoon are a marvelous world unto house wine) or a spritz, the local concoction of palaces and La Pietà, the church where Antonio
themselves. San Pietro in Volta, inhabited by white wine and a generous dash of Campari or Vivaldi used to give musical instruction. Then it’s on
hardy fisher-folk and rowing champions, is a similar apéritif, embellished with a fat green olive past the stuccoed ochre Ca’ di Dio, or House of
photogenic village set on a slender strip of sand and a slice of lemon. Perfect accompaniments are God. Now a convalescent home, it once hosted
facing the Adriatic, and accessible from the Lido the omnipresent bowls of chips or peanuts, but pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land in the
by car ferry, bus, or bicycle. It comes alive in the connoisseurs prefer cicchetti, flavorsome traditional Middle Ages. Over a bridge is the huge Arsenale
summer months with a string of saints’ festivities bar snacks. Favorites include crostino di baccalà shipyard, where galleys and warships were
that see colorful processions and dancing in (creamed salt cod spread on crusty bread), folpetti assembled during the centuries of the Venetian
the streets. A bunch of excellent fish restaurants (a saucerful of tender baby octopus) and sarde fritte Republic. Encircled by a high crenellated brick wall,
there includes Trattoria Da Nane. (crispy fried sardines in light batter). the shipyard is open during art shows such as the
A short distance north across the water on The Rialto market area boasts a great choice of Biennale extravaganzas.
vaporetto Line 20, a dwindling community of atmospheric osterie including Cantina Do Mori, Close to Castello’s southern edge is broad Via
Armenian monks on San Lazzaro degli Armeni where the ceiling is hung with copper cooking Garibaldi, lined with eateries such as cheerful
continue as guardians of a historic library with pots. At Al Marca, customers clutching drinks and Trattoria Giorgione. Next to a lively market, the
numerous beautifully illustrated manuscripts. food spill out into the square mixing with shoppers road forks, and you turn down a shady, tree-lined
They also act as tour guides for visitors to their laden with fresh fruit and vegetables. avenue constructed under the late 18th-century
peaceful haven. The fascinating neighboring A fine establishment on the opposite side of French dominion. Here a statue of Garibaldi towers
island of San Servolo (guided tours available), the Grand Canal in Cannaregio is low-ceilinged over a pond crawling with terrapins, which have
erstwhile psychiatric sanatorium, now not only La Bottega ai Promessi Sposi, which does delicious been released here by locals.
houses an international university but also hosts things with anchovies and calamari. Frequented by At the rear of Castello, accessible by a long
artisans’ workshops. the young crowd, bustling Osteria alla Botte wooden bridge, is the sleepy backwater of San
Northwards, most visitors head for Burano for located in the San Marco district has often been Pietro, site of settlements dating back to the
its brightly painted houses and lace shops, but next known to verge on the rowdy. A place worth 7th century. Its handsome church of Palladian
door is also pretty Mazzorbo, home to laid-back hunting out near the Accademia Gallery is friendly design, the Chiesa di San Pietro di Castello, was
trattorias and vegetable gardens bulging with prize Al Bottegon, where old-fashioned pickles, actually the cathedral of Venice up until 1807,
artichokes. A private taxi launch is needed to reach mortadella sausage, and hard-boiled eggs on when Basilica di San Marco took over. During the
San Francesco del Deserto, a peaceful cypress- toothpicks are served along with wine. Bottles can Venetian Republic years, the ecclesiastical
ringed retreat for a small community of Franciscan be purchased from the ranks of impressive authorities were all but confined here, well away
monks who happily show the curious around their vintages lining this family-run bar. from the city’s seat of power at San Marco, to keep
island home, founded by Saint Francis himself. Church and State separate. Nearby, the public
PRACTICAL INFORMATION gardens of Sant’Elena and its playground are a
PRACTICAL INFORMATION Al Bottegon (Cantinone già Schiavi) Fondamenta Nani, Dorsoduro 992; good spot to relax with a book or enjoy a picnic.
For ferry information www.actv.it tel. +390 41 523 0034
Isola di San Francesco del Deserto www.isola-sanfrancescodeldeserto.it La Bottega ai Promessi Sposi Calle dell’Oca, Cannaregio 4367; PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Isola di San Lazzaro degli Armeni Line 20 from San Zaccaria; tel. +390 41 241 2747 Biennale Palazzo Giustinian Lolin, San Vidal, San Marco 2893;
tel. +390 41 526 0104 Cantina Do Mori Calle dei Do Mori, San Polo 429; tel. +390 41 522 5401 www.labiennale.org
Isola di San Servolo www.sanservolo.provincia.venezia.it Al Marca Campo Bella Vienna, San Polo 213; tel. +390 03 992 4781 Chiesa di San Pietro di Castello Campo San Pietro; www.chorusvenezia.org
Trattoria Da Nane Via Laguna 282, Pellestrina; tel. +390 41 527 9110 Osteria alla Botte Calle della Bissa, San Marco 5482; tel. +390 41 520 9775 Trattoria Giorgione Via Garibaldi 1533, Garibaldi; www.ristorantegiorgione.it

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