Page 132 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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CITIES Less-Explored
Venice

No one can fail to be impressed by magical Venice, but it is the backwaters of the city,
far from the tourist trails, where the real soul of the city lies undisturbed by crowds

NEED TO KNOW seagulls to enjoy far-reaching views against a
backdrop of the snow-spattered Alps.
LOCATION Venice is in The immense 210-sq-mile (550-sq-km) expanse
the top northeast corner of
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Italy, on the curve of the 7&/*$& of the Venice lagoon has much to offer visitors, too.
Adriatic Coast Its waters are dotted with islands that have been
POPULATION 60,700 *5"-: inhabited since Roman times and through the
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VISITORS PER YEAR 3PNF 4FB Middle Ages. There are still hosts of monasteries
19 million /BQMFT
DAYTIME 5ZSSIFOJBO (albeit abandoned), the famous lazaretti, or
TEMPERATURES 4FB hospitals, constructed for plague victims and
Jan: 39°F (4°C); Apr: 54°F (12°C); *POJBO
1BMFSNP 4FB lepers, and small but thriving fishing communities.
Jul: 73°F (23°C); Oct: 61°F (16°C)
Barely navigable channels snake through shallows
and salt marshes. The northern stretch harbors fish
Any trip to this waterborne city inevitably starts farms, market gardens, and open spaces where
at Piazza San Marco, with its entourage of glittering herons, cormorants, and flamingoes come to breed. FORGET THE VENICE
monuments. Here are photo opportunities galore, The public waterbus, or vaporetto, runs out to
including feeding pigeons and rooftop views from Murano, with its world-famous glass; Burano, TOURIST TRAIL?
the Campanile (bell tower). A trip in a gondola known for its lace; and Torcello, where the first
THE BUILD-UP The dazzling array of must-see
rowed by a handsome gondolier, as you glide on lagoon dwellers settled. The lagoon’s southern end
sights includes grandiose Piazza San Marco, and
the magnificent Grand Canal beneath the majestic features islands with multiple uses, from being
the intricately decorated Doge’s Palace. Then
Rialto arch, is about as delightfully stereotypical as ancient ammunition dumps to havens for refugees. there’s the bejeweled Basilica of St. Mark and its
it can get. But there is much more of Venice to be Just 20 minutes away by waterbus from St Mark’s treasures, and the myriad museums and churches
experienced, hidden away in the city’s backwaters. is the Lido, with its long stretch of sandy beach that showcase the glorious Renaissance art
All it takes is a wrong turn, a detour from the offering respite from the high culture of the city. created here. Hours can be spent on the city’s
tourist trails and the maddening crowds are left Farther south, joining the mainland, the lively main water artery, the Grand Canal, lined with
behind as you wander into the real Venice, where fishing port of Chioggia is worth a visit for its sandy palaces and crossed by four major bridges.
the locals live, work, and socialize. In this maze of beach and fish restaurants.
alleys, wonderful rewards come in the form of A little off the beaten track, these backwaters THE LETDOWN You’ll be hard put to have the
famous square to yourself, day or night. Waiting
authentic neighborhood cafés and canalside wine of the “floating” city hide a uniquely Venetian allure.
and jostling in line become familiar pastimes at
bars, or osteria, buzzing with the sounds of the
top sights and prices are sky high at every corner.
local Venetian dialect. These are inviting places for PRACTICAL INFORMATION
a relaxed morning cappuccino, an unhurried DOING IT ANYWAY? Careful planning is
alfresco lunch, or a spritz apéritif, later in the day. Getting There and Around budget option, while Pensione essential to ensure an enjoyable vacation, so go at
Wander farther to discover tiny squares where kids Marco Polo airport is 6 miles La Calcina (www.lacalcina.com) a non-peak time, steering clear of European public
(10 km) northeast of Venice. falls in the mid-price category.
play soccer and neighbors settle down to chat holidays. Try and visit sights at lunchtime to
Buses take 20 minutes to reach Those looking for luxury should
beside Renaissance churches housing exquisite the city and launches about opt for Palazzo Abadessa avoid groups. Invest in a Venice Card travel pass
works of art. Then, unexpectedly, you emerge at 45 minutes. The city is best (www.abadessa.com). covering boat transportation and the main sights.
the lagoon’s edge in the company of wheeling explored on foot, although the When to Go
public ferry or vaporetto makes Winter can be sunny and crisp,
for a relaxing cruise. with fewer crowds. However,
Where to Eat take heed that in the months
Food in Venice centers on of October, November, and
seafood. Exclusive Da Fiore December, you are more likely to
(www.dafiore.net) in the San encounter flooding, known as
Polo district specializes in dishes Acqua Alta. Spring (Mar–May)
made from seasonal ingredients. is lovely, as a little warmth
Or opt for La Caravella, where streams into the sun’s rays.
traditional fare is reinterpreted Budget per Day for Two
(www.restaurantlacaravella.com). US$210 including food and
ABOVE A popular destination for visitors in Venice, the
Where to Stay accommodations. ever-crowded Piazza San Marco
Al Campaniel (www. Website
alcampaniel.com) is a good www.turismovenezia.com
ABOVE Church of San Michele on San Michele, an island in Venice lagoon

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