Page 140 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain
P. 140

138      NOR THERN  SP AIN


                           houses in Lesaka have wooden
                           balconies under deep eaves. The
                           road south passes hills dotted
                           with white farmsteads to reach
                           Igantzi, (Yanci), with its red-and-
                           white houses. Arantza is the most
                           re mote town. Since the 12th
                           century, pigeons have been
                           caught in huge nets strung
                           across a pass above Etxalar
                           (Echalar). At the summit of    Canopy over the Virgin and Child in the
                           La Rhune on the French bor der   Colegiata Real, Roncesvalles
                           is a great view of the Pyrenees.
                                               h Roncesvalles
                           g Elizondo          Navarra. * 34. n Antiguo Molino
                                               s/n, 948 76 03 01. _ Día de la
                           Navarra. * 7,700. @ n Palacio    Virgen de Roncesvalles (8 Sep).
       Basque houses in the picturesque town    de Arizkunenea, 948 58 12 79 (closed   ∑ roncesvalles.es
       of Etxalar, Valle de Bidasoa  winter). ( Thu. _ Santiago (25 Jul).
                           ∑ baztan.eus        Roncesvalles (Orreaga), on the
       f Las Cinco Villas                      Spanish side of a pass through
       del Valle de Bidasoa   This is the biggest of a string    the Pyrenees, is a ma jor halt on
                           of typical Basque villages in the
                                               the Road to Santiago (see pp86–7).
       Navarra. @ Pamplona, San Sebastián.   very beautiful valley of Baztán.   Before it be came associated with
       n 948 63 12 22 (Easter week &   By the river are noble houses   the pil grim’s way, Roncesvalles
       summer; 948 59 23 86 rest of year).   bearing coats of arms.  was the site of a major battle
       ∑ turismo.navarra.es;      Arizkun, further up the val ley,   in 778, in which the Basques
       ∑ baztan-bidasoa.com  has old fortified houses and a   of Navarra slaughtered the
                           17th-century convent. The    rear guard of Charlemagne’s
       Five attractive Basque towns lie   Cueva de Brujas, in Zugarramurdi,   army as it marched home ward.
       in or near this valley, the most   was once a meeting place    This event is described in the
       northerly being Bera (Vera). The   for witches.  12th-century French epic
                                               poem The Song of Roland.
                                                 The 13th-century Colegiata
                                               Real, which has served trav ellers
                                               down the centuries, has a silver-
                                               plated Virgin and Child below
                                               a high canopy. In the graceful
                                               chapterhouse, off the cloister,
                                               is the white tomb of Sancho VII
                                               the Strong (1170–1234), looked
                                               down upon by a stained-glass
                                               window of his great victory, the
                                               battle of Las Navas de Tolosa (see
                                               pp58–9). Exhibits in the church
                                               museum include “Charlemagne’s
                                               chess board”, an enamelled reli-
                                               quary which is so called because
                                               of its chequered design.

                                               j Valle de Roncal
                                               Navarra. @ from Pamplona. n Paseo
                                               Julian Gayarre s/n, Roncal, 948 47 52
                                               56; Isaba, 948 89 32 51.
                                               ∑ vallederoncal.es
                                               Running perpendicular to the
                                               Pyrenees, this valley is still largely
                                               reliant on sheep, and the village
                                               of Roncal is known for its
                                               cheeses. Because of the valley’s
                                               relative isolation, the inhabitants
       The forested countryside around Roncesvalles  have preserved their own
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp585–6


   138-139_EW_Spain.indd   138                              26/09/17   11:00 am
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.1)
     Date 5th December 2012
     Size 125mm x 217mm
   135   136   137   138   139   140   141   142   143   144   145