Page 308 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

306  M ADRID

1 El Rastro partly occupied by an unofficial
and alternative cultural centre.
Calle Ribera de Curtidores. Map 4 E4.
 La Latina, Tirso de Molina.
Open 10am–3pm Sun & public hols.
2 La Latina
Madrid’s celebrated flea market Map 4 D4.  La Latina.
(see p321), established in the
Middle Ages, has its hub in The district of La Latina, together
the Plaza de Cascorro and with the adjacent Lavapiés, is
sprawls downhill towards the considered to be the heart of
Río Manzanares. The main street castizo Madrid. This term is used
is the Calle Ribera de Curtidores, to describe the culture of the tra-
or “Tanners’ Riverbank”, once the di tional working classes of Madrid
centre of the slaughterhouse – that of the true madrileño.
and tanning industry. La Latina runs along the city’s
Although some people claim southern hillside from the Plaza Interior of San Francisco el Grande
that the Rastro has changed Puerta de Moros, southwards
a great deal since its heyday through the streets where the Up past the fountain, the Plaza
during the 19th century, there Rastro is held. To the east it de la Paja ends with the harsh
are still plenty of madrileños, as merges with Lavapiés. La Latina’s stone walls of the Capilla del
well as tourists, who shop here. steep streets are lined with tall, Obispo, or Bishop’s Chapel,
They come in search of a bargain narrow houses, renovated to belonging originally to the
from the stalls which sell a huge form an attractive neighbour- adjoining Palacio Vargas. The
range of wares – any thing from hood. There are old-fashioned superb Plateresque altarpiece
new furniture to second-hand and trendy bars around the is by Francisco Giralte. Up to
clothes. The wide range of Plaza del Humil ladero as well the left, the Baroque, cherub-
goods and the lively crowds in as in the Lavapiés district. covered dome of the Iglesia
the Rastro make it an ideal way de San Andrés stands out.
to spend a Sunday morning. Nearby is a small cluster of
It is also worth making a stop interlinked squares, ending in
at the Galerías Piquer (Calle the Plaza Puerta de Moros, a
Ribera de Curtidores 29) and reminder of the Muslim com-
the Plaza General Vara del Rey. munity which once occupied
The Calle de Embajadores is the area. From here, a right turn
the market’s other main street. leads to the domed bulk of
It runs down past the Baroque San Francisco el Grande, an
façade of the Iglesia de San impressive landmark. Inside the
Cayetano, designed by José church is a painting by Goya
Churriguera and Pedro de and his brother-in-law Francisco
Ribera. Its interior has been Bayeu. The choir stalls were
restored since fire destroyed moved here from the monastery
it during the Civil War. of El Paular (see pp332–3).
Further along the street is the
former Real Fábrica de Tabacos Bottles of wine for sale in an old-style bar
(the Royal Tobacco Factory), begun in Lavapiés 4 Casa de Campo
as a state enterprise in 1809. It is Paseo Puerta del Angel 1. Tel 91 479 60
3 Plaza de la Paja 02.  Batán, Lago, Príncipe Pío, Casa
de Campo. Open 9am–9pm daily.
Map 4 D3.  La Latina. Closed to cars. ∑ esmadrid.com
Once the focus of medieval This former royal hunting
Madrid, the area around the ground, stretching over 1,740 ha
Plaza de la Paja – literally (4,300 acres), lies in southwest-
Straw Square – is extremely ern Madrid. Its wide range of
atmospheric and many amenities make it a popular
interesting buildings are daytime recreation area. Attrac-
located on the square. tions include a boating lake, a
Climbing upwards from the zoo, and an amusement park –
Calle de Segovia, a glimpse the Parque de Atracciones.
left along the Calle Príncipe Sports enthusiasts can make
Anglona yields a view of the use of the swimming pool and
Mudéjar-style brick tower jogging track. In the summer
Some of the curios on display at the Rastro of the Iglesia de San Pedro, the park is also used as a venue
flea market dating from the 14th century. for rock concerts.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3

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