Page 310 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

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8 Museo Cerralbo 9 Palacio de Liria
Calle Ventura Rodríguez 17. Map 1 C5. Calle la Princesa 20. Tel 91 547 53 02.
Tel 91 547 36 46.  Plaza de España,  Ventura Rodríguez. Open 10am–
Ventura Rodríguez. Open 9:30am–3pm noon Fri. 8 obligatory. ^
Tue–Sat (also 5–8pm Thu), 10am–3pm
Sun. Closed some public hols. & The lavish but much-restored
(free Sun, after 5pm Thu & 2pm Sat). Palacio de Liria was completed
^ 8 ∑ enmuseocerralbo.mcu.es by Ventura Rodríguez in 1780.
Once the residence of the Alba
This 19th-century mansion family, and still owned by the
near the Plaza de España is a Duke, it can be visited by a
monument to Enrique de maximum of 15 people at one
Aguilera y Gamboa, the 17th time and by appointment only.
Marquis of Cerralbo. A com - The palace houses the Albas’
pulsive collector of art and outstanding collection of art,
artifacts, he bequeathed his and Flemish tapestries. There
lifetime’s collection to the are paintings by Titian, Rubens
nation in 1922, stipulating and Rembrandt. Spanish art is Rooftops in the Malasaña district
that the exhibits be arranged particularly well represented,
exactly as he left them. They with major works by Goya, 0 Malasaña
range from Iberian pottery to such as his 1795 portrait of Map 2 F5.  Tribunal, Bilbao.
18th-century marble busts. the Duchess of Alba, as well as
One of the star exhibits is examples of work by El Greco, A feeling of the authentic old
El Greco’s magnificent The Zurbarán and Velázquez. Madrid pervades this district of
Ecstasy of Saint Francis of Assisi. Behind the palace is the narrow, sloping streets and tall
There are also paintings by Cuartel del Conde-Duque, the houses. For some years it was
Ribera, Zurbarán, Alonso Cano former barracks of the Count- the centre of the movida, the
and Goya. Duke Olivares, Felipe IV’s frenzied nightlife which began
The focal point of the main minister. They were built in after the death of Franco.
floor is the ballroom, lavishly 1720 by Pedro de Ribera, who A walk along the Calle San
decorated with mirrors. A large adorned them with a Baroque Andrés leads to the fashionable
collection of weaponry is on façade. The barracks now house area, Plaza del Dos de Mayo.
display on this floor. a cultural centre. In the centre is a monument
to artillery officers Daoíz and
Velarde, who de fended the
barracks which stood here at
the time of the uprising against
the French in 1808 (see p67).
On Calle de la Puebla is the
Iglesia de San Antonio de los
Alemanes. The church was
founded by Felipe III in the
17th century as a hospital for
Portuguese immigrants, and
was later given over for use by
German émigrés. Inside, the
walls are decorated with 18th-
century frescoes by Giordano.
Nearby is the neighbourhood
of Conde Duque, a lively area
with a great cultural scene.
q Museo de
Historia de Madrid
Calle de Fuencarral 78. Map 5 A4.
Tel 91 701 18 63.  Tribunal.
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. 7
∑ madrid.es/museodehistoria
The History Museum is worth
visiting just for its Baroque
door way (see p29) by Pedro
Main staircase of the exuberant Museo Cerralbo de Ribera, arguably the finest
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3

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