Page 312 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain
P. 312

310      M ADRID


                           style, it replaced the city’s    Visitors can see the making of
                           orig inal bull ring which stood   the carpets and tapestries by
                           near the Puerta de Alcalá. With   hand, a process which has
                           its horse shoe arches around    changed little. Goya and his
                           the outer galleries and the   brother­in­law Francisco Bayeu
                           elabo rate tilework deco ration,    created drawings, or cartoons,
                           it makes a lovely venue for the   which were the models for
                           corridas held during the bull­  tapestries made for the royal
                           fighting season, from May to   family. A number of the cartoons
                           October. The statues outside are   are displayed here; others can be
                           monuments to two renowned   seen in the Museo del Prado (see
                           Spanish bull fighters: Antonio   pp296–9). Some of the tap estries
       Torre de Picasso towering over the Paseo   Bienvenida and José Cubero.  can be seen at El Pardo (see p336)
       de la Castellana      Adjoining the bullring is the   and at El Escorial (see pp334–5).
                           Museo Taurino. Memorabilia   Nowa days one of the factory’s
       r Paseo de la       includes por traits and   main tasks is making and
       Castellana          sculptures of famous matadors,   repairing the carpets decorating
                           as well as the heads of several   Hotel Ritz by Belmond (see p290).
       Map 6 D3.  Santiago Bernabéu,   bulls killed during fights at Las
       Cuzco, Plaza de Castilla, Gregorio   Ventas. Visitors can view close
       Marañón, Colón.     up the tools of the bullfighter’s   u Parque de
       The busy traffic artery which cuts   trade: capes and banderillas –   El Capricho
       through eastern Madrid has   sharp darts used to wound the   Paseo de la Alameda de Osuna s/n.
       several parts. Its southernmost   bull (see pp40–41). For some   Tel 915 88 01 14.  El Capricho.
       portion – the Paseo del Prado (see   people, the gory highlight of   Open Apr–Sep: 9am–9pm
       pp288–9) – starts just north of the   the exhi bition is the blood­  Sat (to 6:30pm Oct–Mar).
       Estación de Atocha (see p301).   drenched traje de luces worn
       The oldest section, it dates from   by the legendary Manolete   This lesser­known, remote park
       the reign of Carlos III, who built   during his fateful bull fight at   is one of the most unique and
       it as part of his embel lishment   Linares in Andalucía in 1947.  charming examples of a land­
       of east ern Madrid. At the Plaza        scape garden in Spain. Built in the
       de Cibeles, the avenue becomes   y Real Fábrica    Romantic style on the whim of a
       the Paseo de Recoletos, which           duchess in the late 18th century,
       boasts stylish cafés, includ ing    de Tapices   it displays both Italian and
       the Café Gijón (see p295).  Calle Fuenterrabía 2. Map 8 F5.    French influences. The plantlife is
         The Plaza de Colón marks the   Tel 914 34 05 50.  Menéndez   abundant, particularly in spring,
       start of the Paseo de la Castellana.   Pelayo. Open 10am–2pm Mon–Fri,   when the garden comes to life
       This northernmost section has   last entry 30 minutes before closing.   with the groves of lilacs and
       several examples of modern   Closed public hols & Aug. & 8   cascading roses. Other interesting
       architecture, includ ing the huge   only. ∑ realfabricadetapices.com  places include an artificial canal
       grey Nuevos Ministerios building.       that leads to a lake with ducks
       East of the square is the Estadio   Founded by Felipe V in 1721, the   and swans, the reed­covered
       Bernabéu, home of Real Madrid   Royal Tapestry Factory is the sole   boathouse known as the Casa
       Football Club (see p181). At the   survivor of several factories which  de Cañas, the Casino del Baile
       north end, in Plaza de Castilla,   were opened by the Bourbons   (Dance Casino), a small temple,
       you can find the two Puerta de   (see pp66–7) during the 18th   a modest palace with a beautiful
       Europa buildings, built at an angle  century. In 1889 the factory was   ballroom, an unusual beehouse
       as if leaning toward each other.  relocated to this building just   and underground bun kers
                           south of the Parque del Retiro.  dating back to the Civil War.
       t Plaza de Toros
       de Las Ventas
       Calle Alcalá 237. Tel 913 54 22 00.
        Ventas. Open for bullfights &
       con certs. 9 8 by appt. (910 24
       28 44). Museo Taurino: Tel 917 25
       18 57. Open 10am–5:30pm daily.
       ∑ lasventastour.com
       Whatever your opinion of
       bullfighting, Las Ventas is
       undoubtedly one of the most
       beautiful bullrings in Spain.
       Built in 1929 in Neo­Mudéjar   Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid’s beautiful bullring
       For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp591–3


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