Page 358 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

356  CENTR AL SP AIN

Gaspar Becerra is a masterpiece 6 Cueva de
of the Spanish Renaissance. Valporquero
Among the many fine exhibits
in the cathedral’s museum are León. Tel 987 57 64 08. Open mid-
the 10th-century carved casket of Oct–Dec & Mar–mid-May: 10am–5pm
Alfonso III the Great, the jewelled Thu–Sun, public hols; mid-May–mid-
Oct: 10am–6pm daily. &
Reliquary of the True Cross and a ∑ cuevadevalporquero.es
lavish silver mon strance studded
with enormous emeralds. This complex of limestone
Opposite the cathedral is a caves – technically a single cave
fairy-tale building of multiple with three separate en trances
turrets and quasi-Gothic win- – is directly beneath the village
dows. The unconventional of Valporquero de Torío. The
Palacio Episcopal (Bishop’s caves were formed in the
Palace) was designed at the end Miocene period between 5
of the 19th century by Antoni and 25 million years ago.
The nave of Astorga Cathedral Gaudí, the highly original Severe weather conditions
Modernista architect (see in the surrounding moun-
5 Astorga p168), for the incum bent tains make the caverns
bishop, a fellow Catalan, inaccessible between
León. * 11,900. £ @ n Plaza
Eduardo de Castro 5. Tel 987 61 after a fire in 1887 had December and Easter.
82 22. ( Tue. _ Roman Festival destroyed the previous Less than half of the
(end Jun), Santa Marta (late Aug). building. Its bizarre huge system, which
∑ aytoastorga.es appearance as well stretches 3,100 m
as its phenomenal (10,200 ft) under
The Roman town of Asturica cost so horrified the the ground, is
Augusta was a strategic halt on diocese that no sub- open to the public.
the Vía de la Plata (Silver Road), sequent bishops ever lived in Guided tours take parties
a Roman road linking Andalucía it. Today it houses an assembly through an impressive series
and northwest Spain. Later it of medieval religious art of galleries in which lighting
came to form a stage on the devoted to the history of picks out the beautiful
pilgrimage route to Santiago Astorga and the pilgrimage limestone con cretions.
(see pp86–7). to Santiago. Roman Iron and sulphur oxides
Soaring above the ramparts in relics, including coins Reliquary of the have tinted the rocks
the upper town are Astorga’s two unearthed in the Plaza True Cross many subtle shades
principal monuments, the cathe- Romana, are evi dence of of red, grey and
dral and the Palacio Episcopal. Astorga’s importance as a black. The vast Gran Rotonda,
The cathedral was built between Roman settlement. The palace’s covering an area of 5,600 sq m
the 15th and the 18th centuries interior is decorated with Gaudí’s (18,350 sq ft) and reaching a
and displays a variety of archi- ceramic tiles and stained glass. height of 20 m (65 ft), is the
tectural styles ranging from its most stunning.
Gothic apse to the effusive P Palacio Episcopal As the interior is cold, and
Baroque of its two towers, which Plaza Eduardo de Castro. Tel 987 61 the surface often slippery, it is
are carved with various biblical 68 82. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, advisable to wear warm clothes
scenes. The gilt altar piece by Sun pm, public hols. & and sturdy shoes.

Illuminated stalactites hanging from the roof of one of the chambers in the Cueva de Valporquero
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5

356-357_EW_Spain.indd 356 26/09/17 11:02 am