Page 363 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  361

rise to fortification, and its
robust 14th-century castle is
now an atmospheric parador.
The pros perous 15th and 16th
centuries were Ciudad Rodrigo’s
heyday. During the War of Inde-
pendence (see pp66–7), the city,
then occupied by the French,
was besieged for two years
before falling to the Duke
of Wellington’s forces.
The golden stone buildings
within the ramparts are delight-
ful. The main monument is
the cathedral (closed Mon pm),
Fish-scale tiling on dome of Zamora Cathedral whose belfry still bears the marks
of shellfire from the siege. The
adorn its capitals and friezes. Toro, 9 Ciudad Rodrigo exterior has a shapely curved
30 km (18 miles) east of Zamora, Salamanca. * 13,600. £ @ balus trade and accomp lished
is at the heart of a wine region n Plaza Mayor 27, 923 49 84 00. portal carvings. Inside, it is
(see pp344–5). The highlights of ( Tue, Sat. _ San Sebastián worth seeing the cloisters and
its Colegiata de Santa María are (20 Jan), Carnaval del Toro (before the choir stalls, carved with
the Gothic west portal and a fine Lent), Easter week, Charrada (mid-Jul). lively scenes by Rodrigo Alemán.
16th-century Hispano-Flemish In the adjacent 16th-century
painting, La Virgen de la Mosca. Despite its lonely setting – Capilla de Cerralbo (Cerralbo
In 1476, the forces of Isabel I stranded on the country’s Chapel; only open to tourists in
(see pp60–61) secured a victory western marches miles from the summer) is a 17th-century
over the Portuguese at Toro, anywhere – this lovely old altarpiece. Off the chapel’s
confirming her succes sion to town is well worth a detour. Its south side is the arcaded Plaza
the Castile throne. frontier location inevitably gave del Buen Alcalde.

4 Miranda del Castañar
The narrow streets of this pretty, fortified village
are lined with ancient houses with wide eaves.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
Agadón
Salamanca

Santibáñez
J
de la Sierra
Cristóbal
Cepeda

Alagón 5 Béjar
Sotoserrano This textile town is strung out along
Madronal J
a ridge at the foot of the Sierra
Sangusin de Béjar. From the approach
road, 19th-century
La Calzada
Tips for Drivers de Béjar factories and mills
can be seen.
Tour length: 72 km (45 miles).
Stopping-off points: Candelario, J Salamanca
Miranda del Castañar and La 6 Candelario
Alberca all have good eating The steep, cobbled
places, and are renowned for streets are lined with
their hams and sausages. In deep channels and
summer, refreshments are stormgates to cope with
available from the hospedería the spring melt water from
(inn) in La Peña’s monastery. the surrounding mountains
and flash floods.
For keys to symbols see back flap

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