Page 372 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

370  CENTR AL SP AIN

o Medina del
Campo
Valladolid. * 21,600. £ @
n Plaza Mayor 48, 983 81 13 57.
( Sun. _ San Antolín (1–8 Sep).
∑ medinadelcampo.es
Medina became wealthy in
medieval times on the pro­
ceeds of huge sheep fairs and
is still an important agri cultural
centre today. The vast brick
Gothic­Mudejár Castillo de
la Mota (see p348), on its
outskirts, began as a Moorish
castle but was rebuilt in
1440. The town transferred
the castle’s ownership to the
Crown in 1475. Isabel I and her
daughter Juana “la Loca” (“the Castillo de la Mota at Medina del Campo
Mad”) both stayed here. Later,
it served as a prison – Cesare Alfonso XI around 1340 and then a Valladolid
Borja was incar cerated here converted by his son Pedro the Valladolid. * 311,500. £ @ n
from 1506 to 1508. In a corner Cruel into a stunning residence Glass Pavilion, Acera de Recoletos,
of the Plaza Mayor stands the for his mistress, María de Padilla. 983 21 93 10. ( Wed, Sat, Sun.
modest house where Isabel Pining for her native Andalucía, _ Easter week, San Pedro Regalado
died in 1504. she had the convent decorated (13 May), Virgen de San Lorenzo
with fine Moorish arches, baths (8 Sep). ∑ info.valladolid.es
Environs and tiles. Most impressive are
Towering over the plains, some the beautiful patio and the The Arabic city of Belad­Walid
25 km (16 miles) to the south main chapel. There is a fantastic (meaning “Land of the
of Medina del Campo, are the display of royal musical instru­ Governor”) is located at the
walls of Madrigal de las Altas ments, including the portable confluence of the Río Esgueva
Torres, which owes its name to organ of Juana “la Loca”. and Río Pisuerga. Although it
the hundreds of bastions that In the old quarter, the Iglesia has become sprawling and
marked the old wall; only 23 de San Antolín now houses a industrialized, Valladolid has
remain. In 1451 Isabel was fascinating religious art museum, some of Spain’s best Renais­
born here in a palace that later which displays paintings as well sance art and architecture.
became the Monasterio de las as a collection of liturgical objects. Fernando and Isabel (see pp60–
Agustinas in 1527. 61) were married in the Palacio
R Monasterio de Santa Clara Vivero in 1469 and, following the
+ Castillo de la Mota Tel 983 77 00 71. Open Tue–Sun. completion of the Reconquest
Tel 983 81 00 63. Open Tue–Sun pm. & (free Wed pm & Thu pm for EU in 1492, they made Valladolid
Closed public hols. 8 only. citizens). ∑ patrimonionacional.es their capital. Less spectacularly,
∑ castillodelamota.es
R Iglesia de San Antolín Columbus died here, alone and
Calle Postigo. Tel 983 77 09 80. forgotten, in 1506. In 1527
Open Tue–Sun. & Felipe II was born in the Palacio
p Tordesillas de los Pimentel. José Zorrilla,
who popularized the legendary
Valladolid. * 9,000. @ n Casas del
Tratado, 983 77 10 67 (closed Mon). Don Juan in his 1844 play (see
( Tue. _ Fiestas de la Peña (mid­ p39), was also born in the city.
Sep). ∑ tordesillas.net The Baroque façade (see p29)
of the city’s 15th­century
This pleasant town is where the university was begun in 1715 by
historic treaty between Spain Narciso Tomé. He later created
and Portugal was signed in the Transparente of Toledo
1494, dividing the lands of the Cathedral (see p397).
New World (see p60). A fateful The Iglesia de San Pablo has
oversight by the Spanish map­ a spectacular façade, embel­
makers left the immense prize lished with angels and coats
of Brazil to Portugal. of arms in Plateresque style.
The town’s main place to visit Among the other noteworthy
is the Monasterio de Santa Moorish patio in the Monasterio de Santa churches are Santa María la
Clara. It was constructed by Clara, Tordesillas Antigua, with its Romanesque
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5

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