Page 373 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

C ASTILLA Y LEÓN  371

belfry, and the Iglesia de Las converted by Charles V into
Angustias, where Juan de Spain’s national archive. The
Juni’s fine sculpture of the Visigothic church in the village
Virgen de los Cuchillos (Virgin of Wamba, 15 km (9 miles) to
of the Knives) is on display. the west, contains the tomb
of King Recceswinth.
P Casa de Cervantes An unusual long, narrow
Calle Rastro s/n. Tel 983 30 88 10. 15th-century castle on a ridge
Open Tue–Sun. Closed pub hols. overlooks the wine town of
& (free Sun am). Peñafiel, 60 km (40 miles) east
∑ museocasacervantes.mcu.es of Valladolid (see p349).
The author of Don Quixote
(see p38) lived in this simple s Medina de
house with whitewashed walls
from 1603 to 1606. The rooms Rioseco
contain some of Cervantes’ Valladolid. * 5,000. @ n Paseo de
original furnishings. Antonio Moro’s Calvary, in the Museo San Francisco, 983 72 03 19 (closed
Nacional de Escultura, Valladolid Mon). ( Wed. _ Easter week; San
R Cathedral Juan (24 Jun), Virgen del Castillviejo
Calle Arribas 1. Tel 983 30 43 62. Closed They include Juan de Juni’s (8 Sep). ∑ medinaderioseco.com
Mon. & (Oct–Jun: free Thu). 8 by emotive depiction of the burial
appt. ∑ catedral-valladolid.com of Christ and Recumbent Christ During the Middle Ages this
Work started on the unfinished by Gregorio Fernández. An town grew wealthy from the
cathedral in 1580 by Felipe II’s Alonso Berruguete altarpiece, profitable wool trade, enabling
favourite architect, Juan de and walnut choir stalls by it to commission leading artists,
Herrera, but lost mo mentum Diego de Siloé and other mainly of the Valladolid school,
over the centuries. Churri- artists, are among the other to decorate its churches. The
gueresque (see p29) flourishes fine works to be found here. dazzling star vaulting and superb
on the façade are in contrast The building itself is worthy wood work of the Iglesia de
to the sombre, square-pillared of attention, particularly the Santa María de Mediavilla, in the
interior, whose only redeeming Plateresque staircase, the chapel centre of town, are evidence of
flamboyance is a Juan de Juni by Juan Güas, and the patio of this. Inside, the Los Bena vente
altarpiece. The Museo Diocesano twisted columns and delicate Chapel is a tour de force, with a
inside, how ever, contains some basket arches. The façade is a fine colourful stucco ceiling by
fine religious art and sculpture. example of Isabelline (see p28) Jerónimo del Corral (1554), and
sculpture, portraying a melee of an altarpiece by Juan de Juni.
E Museo Nacional naked children scrambling about The interior of the Iglesia de
de Escultura in thorn trees and strange beasts. Santiago is stunning, with a
Cadenas de S Gregorio 1, 2 & 3. Tel The nearby 16th-century triple altarpiece designed by
983 25 03 75. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Palacio de Villena displays the the Churriguera brothers of
Sun pm, public hols. & (free Sat pm valuable Belén Napolitano Salamanca (see p29).
& Sun). ∑ museoescultura.mcu.es (Naples Christmas crib). The ancient buildings on
This permanent art collection Medina de Rioseco’s main
in the 15th-century Colegio de E Patio Herreriano Museo street, the Calle de la Rúa, are
San Gregorio consists mainly of de Arte Contemporáneo supported on wooden pillars,
wooden religious sculptures Español forming shady porticoes.
from the 13th to 18th centuries. Calle Jorge Guillén 6. Tel 983 36 27 71.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Sun pm. &
7 ∑ museopatioherreriano.org
This private collection of
contemporary Spanish art
opened in 2002, housed in the
former Monastery of San Benito
with its fine cloisters. More than
800 works by 200 Spanish artists
are displayed, including work
by Joan Miró, Eduardo Chillida,
Antoni Tàpies and Miquel Barceló.
Environs
The moated grey castle that
dominates the village of
Façade of Colegio de San Simancas, 11 km (7 miles) Altarpiece by Juan de Juni, Iglesia de Santa
Gregorio, Valladolid southwest of Valladolid, was María de Mediavilla

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