Page 485 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

AND AL UCÍA  483

g Palma del Río provide blissful shade. An ideal
Córdoba. * 19,400. £ @ n Plaza place to sit and observe daily
Mayor de Andalucía s/n, 957 64 43 70. life passing by, this is also a spot
( Tue. _ Ferias (19–21 May & for evening strolls.
18–20 Aug). ∑ palmadelrio.es Écija has 11 Baroque church
steeples, many adorned with
The Romans sited a strategic gleaming azulejos (see p444),
settlement here, on the road and together they make a very
between Córdoba and Itálica, impressive sight. The most florid
almost 2,000 years ago. The of these is the Iglesia de Santa
remains of the 12th­ María, which overlooks the Plaza
century city walls are a de España. The Iglesia de San
reminder of the town’s Juan, with its exquisite, brightly
frontier days under the coloured bell tower, is a very
Almohads (see p58). close rival. Detail of woodcarving in the main hall of
The Iglesia de la Of the many mansions Medina Azahara
Asunción, a Baroque along Calle Emilio Castelar, the
church, dates from Baroque Palacio de Peñaflor is employ ing more than 15,000
the 18th century. worth a visit. Its pink marble mules, 4,000 camels and 10,000
The Mona sterio de doorway is topped by twisted wor kers to bring building mate­
San Francisco is columns, while an attractive rials from as far as North Africa.
now a hotel (see wrought­iron balcony runs The palace is built on three
p574), and guests along the whole front façade. levels and includes a mosque,
can eat dinner in the caliph’s residence and fine
the 15th­century P Palacio de Peñaflor gardens (see pp426–7). Marble,
refectory of Calle Emilio Castelar 26. Tel 954 83 ebony, jasper and alabaster once
the Franciscan 02 73. Closed for refurbishment. adorned its many halls, and it is
monks. Palma believed that shimmering pools
Bell tower, La del Río is the of quicksilver added lustre.
Asunción home town of El j Medina Azahara The glory was short­lived.
Cordobés, one of Córdoba. Tel 957 10 49 33. @ Cór doba. The palace was sacked by
Spain’s most famous matadors. Open 9am–8pm (to 3pm mid­Jun– Berber invaders in 1010 and
His biography, Or I’ll Dress You in mid­Sep, to 6pm mid­Sep–Mar) Tue– over subsequent centuries it
Mourning, paints a vivid picture Sat; 9am–6pm Sun & public hols. & was ransacked for its building
of life in the town and of the mat erials. Now, the ruins give
hardship which follow ed the Just a few kilometres north of only glimpses of its former
end of the Civil War. Córdoba lies this once glorious beauty – a Moorish main hall,
palace. Built in the 10th century for instance, decorated with
Environs for Caliph Abd al Rahman III, it is marble carvings and a carved
One of the most dramatic named after his favourite wife, wood ceiling. The palace is
silhouettes in Southern Spain Azahara. He spared no expense, currently being restored.
breaks the skyline of Almodóvar
del Río. The Moorish castle –
parts of it dating from the 8th
century – stands on a hilltop
over looking the whitewashed
town and fields of cotton.
+ Castillo de Almodóvar del Río
Tel 957 63 40 55. Open daily.
& Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.

h Écija
Sevilla. * 40,000. @ n Calle Elvira
1­A, Palacio de Benamejí, 955 90 29 33.
( Thu. _ Feria (21–24 Sep).
∑ turismoecija.com
Écija is nicknamed “the frying
pan of Andalucía” owing to its
famously torrid climate. In the
searing heat, the palm trees
on the Plaza de España Trompe l’oeil on the ornate Baroque façade of the Palacio de Peñaflor, Écija

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