Page 244 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

242  CENTR AL INDIA

Exploring Khajuraho

The 25 temples at Khajuraho represent the brilliant burst of
artistic flowering that took place under the generous patronage
of the powerful Chandela rulers, who made Khajuraho their
peacetime capital. The remoteness of the temples’ location
saved them from the ravages of Islamic raiders, but also led to
them being abandoned after the decline of the Chandelas in
the 13th century. Hidden in a dense forest for 700 years, they
were “rediscovered” in 1838 by Captain TS Burt of the Bengal
Engineers. According to local tradition there were originally
85 temples, and ongoing excavations have unearthed
extensive ruins in the area.

The Khajuraho temples are and a fascinating frieze showing
divided into three groups. The the construction of the Khajuraho The polished stone image of Varaha,
most important are in the Western temples, with scenes of stone Vishnu’s boar incarnation
Group which, apart from the being cut and transported.
Kandariya Mahadev (see pp240– A short distance away is the Environs
41), includes the Lakshman and Eastern Group of temples. The Raneh Falls, 17 km (11 miles)
the Vishwanath Temples. Both Jain Parsvanatha Temple, built south of the town of Khajuraho,
are similar to the Kandariya in AD 950, is the most provide a cool retreat. The 19th-
Mahadev in composition, remarkable, for the century Rajagarh Palace, 25 km
sculptural embellishments intricately carved ceiling (16 miles) southeast of Khajuraho,
and themes, but they also pendants in its entrance is in the same Bundela style as
have individual features. porch. Three exquisite the palaces at Datia and Orchha
The superb ceiling of the sculptures here show (see pp238–9). Situated 32 km
entrance porch and the apsaras applying kohl (20 miles) southeast of Khajuraho,
female bracket figures around their eyes, the Panna National Park has
inside the Lakshman painting their feet (both leopards, herds of deer and the
Temple (built in AD 930) on the south façade), and scenic Pandav Falls. A favourite
are worth special notice. fastening ankle bells tourist spot in the park is Gille’s
The pair of street singers (on the north façade). Tree House restaurant, perched
on the south façade are The last phase of temple- 20 m (66 ft) above the ground.
also remarkable, with their Apsara applying building in Khajuraho is
expressions of intense kohl to the eyes seen in the Southern
absorption. The master Group. The Chaturbhuj 7 Ajaigarh
architect and his apprentices are Temple (built AD 1090) has a Panna district. 75 km (47 miles)
exquisitely sculpted on the superb four-armed image of Shiva E of Khajuraho. Open daily.
subsidiary shrine in the temple’s in the inner sanctum. It is the
eastern corner. only major temple in Khajuraho This great Chandela citadel,
Opposite the Lakshman Temple without any erotic sculptures. built in the 9th century AD
is a pavilion with a magnificent and perched 500 m (1,640 ft)
statue of Varaha, the boar incar- E Archaeological Museum above the plains, is now a
nation of Vishnu (see p683), covered Open 8am–5pm Sat–Thu. Tel (07686) spectacular ruin. The steep path
with carvings of several deities. 272 320. up to the top goes past gigantic
In the Vishwanath Temple, sculptures carved into the sheer
dating to AD 1002, the apsara cliff face, inclu ding a particularly
plucking a thorn from her foot (on enchanting one of a cow and
the south façade) is outstanding, calf. Within the fort lie the ruins
as is the apsara (celestial nymph) of once-magnifi cent palaces,
playing the flute, which can be broken fragments of statues,
seen in the interior chamber. and several poignant sati pillars,
The Matangeshwar Temple marking the self-immolation
(built AD 900), with its plain of countless Rajput widows.
circular interior, is the only one The fort also houses the Ajay
still in everyday use (see p247). Pal ka Talao, a famous lake,
The Archaeological Museum, and the ruins of a Jain Temple.
near the entrance to the Western Today, the fort can be accessed
Group, has a fine collection of by its two gates: Darwaza,
sculptures found in the area, An image of Vishnu in the to the north, and Tarhaoni, to
including a dancing Ganesha, Lakshman Temple the southeast.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp696–7 and p710

242-243_EW_India.indd 242 26/04/17 11:44 am
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