Page 318 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

316  EASTERN INDIA

Exploring Konark Surrounded by a 6-m (20-ft)
high wall, its main gate is
The Sun Temple at Konark guarded by a pair of brightly
originally had a towering deul painted stone lions. Non-Hindus
(spire), 70 m (230 ft) high, over its are not allowed in, but they can
main sanctuary. Visible far out at get a good view of the complex,
sea, the temple was an important with its multitude of small shrines
navigational aid for European and its courtyard thronged with
sailors headed for Calcutta pilgrims, from the roof of the
(Kolkata), who called it the Black Raghunandan Library across
Pagoda. Over time, the temple’s the street from the main gate.
easily weathered khondalite The temple is similar in
stone was progressively corroded design to the Lingaraj Temple
by seawinds and sand, and by in Bhubaneswar (see p310), with
the 19th century the great tower three smaller shrines adjoining
had completely collapsed. Only its tall sanctuary tower. The
its base still remains. The temple’s elegant stone column near
Bhogmandir, or “Hall of Offerings”, the entrance, topped with the
is now roofless, but its plinth and Puri’s Jagannath Temple, topped with figure of Arun, charioteer of
pillars remain, carved with figures Vishnu’s wheel and flag the Sun God, was brought
of dancers, depicting the poses here from the Sun Temple
still used in classical Odissi 3 Puri at Konark in the 18th century.
dance (see p32). Puri district. 62 km (39 miles) S of From the temple, Puri’s main
The chariot-shaped jaga mohan Bhubaneswar. * 157,650. £ @ street, Bada Danda, runs
or assembly hall was buried for n Odisha Tourism, Station Rd, (06752) through the town, crammed
nearly two centuries under 222 740/222 562. ( daily. _ Rath with pilgrims’ rest houses and
drifting sand. It was only Yatra (Jun/Jul). Jagannath shops selling food, religious
unearthed and restored Temple: Open daily. souvenirs and handicrafts. Local
by the Archaeological Closed to non-Hindus. specialities are the colourful
Survey of India (ASI) pattachitra paintings and round
in the early 20th One of India’s ganjifa playing cards painted
century. Its many most important with religious themes.
remarkable pilgrimage centres, Puri’s beach is its other
sculptures include this seaside town is attraction, though it is not always
no fewer than 1,700 dominated by the safe for swimming because of
elephants in animated Hand-painted ganjifa towering Jagannath dangerous undercurrents. The
motion, carved on the playing card from Puri Temple. Early long beachfront is crowded
plinth; and several European sailors, with stalls and groups of pilgrims
enchanting alasa kanyas for whom its 65-m (213-ft) along Marine Parade. Sunbathers
(maidens at leisure), playing high spire was an important and swimmers should therefore
with a pet bird, holding a mirror, landmark, called it the White head to the eastern end, which
or leaning against a doorway. Pagoda, to differentiate it from is cleaner and more secluded,
Three life-size images of Konark’s Sun Temple, which or to the beaches attached to
the Sun God, Surya, made of they named Black Pagoda. the better hotels. Local fishermen
contrasting coloured chlorite The Jagannath Temple was wearing conical hats serve as
stone, are positioned so that built in the 12th century by lifeguards on the beach, and take
the sun’s rays fall on their King Anantavarman of the visitors out to sea in their boats
faces, turn by turn, at dawn, Eastern Ganga dynasty (see p48). to watch the sunsets.
noon and sunset.
In the northeast corner of
the compound is the Shrine
of the Nine Planets, a large
stone slab carved with the
deities of the nine planets.
Colossal sculptures of war
horses and elephants stand
at the north and south.
Near the compound is the
Archaeological Museum, with
fine sculptures recovered from
the site. The beach is 3 km
(2 miles) from the temple, but
is unsafe for swimming because
of treacherous undercurrents. A family picnic on Puri Beach
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p698 and pp711–12

316-317_EW_India.indd 316 26/04/17 11:45 am
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