Page 506 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

504  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

Exploring Old Goa
Portugal’s Goa Dourada (“Golden Goa”) was once a vast city,
inhabited by more than 30,000 people. In the 16th century, it
attracted missionaries and soldiers, merchants and horse-traders,
and its elegant palaces and mansions were much praised by
contemporary visitors. However, by the mid-18th century,
a series of epidemics and the silting up of the Mandovi river
forced the viceroy to move his residence downstream to
Panaji (see pp490–93). Thereafter, decline set in and, by the
19th century, the city was finally abandoned and its houses
demolished. Today, Old Goa is a mere shadow of its former self,
but the few churches and cathedrals that remain are considered
to be among Goa’s most significant monuments.
R Church of St Cajetan worthy of their mighty empire, Rows of pillars on either side of the central
E of Viceroy’s Arch. Open daily. Francis Coutinho (viceroy, nave, Sé Cathedral
In the 17th century, Pope 1561–4) envisaged a magnificent
Urban III sent Italian priests cathedral that would be the of Alexandria, with panel
from the Theatine largest in Asia. paintings depicting scenes
Order to Golconda The result is the from her life. Two of the eight
(see pp670–71). When Renaissance-style Sé chapels, the Blessed Sacrament
refused entry, they Cathedral, designed and the Cross of Miracles, have
settled in Old Goa. in the 16th century delicate filigree work on their
Here, in 1651, they by Julio Simao and screens. The font, used by
erected a church Ambrosio Argueiro, St Francis Xavier to baptize
dedicated to their and built over 80 converts, is near the entrance.
founder, St Cajetan, years. Its 30-m (98-ft) The sacred relics of his body,
designed along the Detail of altar, Church high Tuscan-style kept in the Basilica de Bom
lines of St Peter’s in of St Cajetan façade was flanked Jesus (see pp502–503), are brought
Rome. The distinctive by two square bell to the cathedral during the
dome and interior, laid out in towers, only one of which expo sitions held every ten years.
the shape of a Greek cross, survives. In it hangs the
embody the majesty of Italian Golden Bell, known for E Archaeological Museum
Baroque. The adjacent its melodic tones, which Convent of St Francis of Assisi.
monastery is today a college rang out during the dreaded Tel (0832) 228 5333. Open Sat–Thu. &
of theology. auto da fé trials, held in the Once Goa’s largest monastery,
cathedral’s front square. the Convent of St Francis of
R Sé Cathedral The interior, with intricate Assisi (built in 1517) now houses
Senate Square. Tel (0832) 228 4710. Corinthian detailing, has a the Archaeological Museum.
Open daily. 5 7am, 7:30am Mon–Sat 76-m (249-ft) long central A huge bronze statue of Alfonso
(Konkani), 6am Sat (Eng), 7:30am, 10am nave. As many as 15 altars grace de Albuquerque, moved from
& 4pm Sun (Konkani). the interior, but the pièce de Panaji, dominates the entrance
Ordered by the government résistance is the gilded high hall. Among the objects of
in Portugal to build a church altar, dedicated to St Catherine interest are a finely carved

From right to left, Sé Cathedral, the Church of St Francis of Assisi and the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary in Old Goa
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp715–16

504-505_EW_India.indd 504 26/04/17 11:48 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm