Page 508 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

506  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

w Ponda sanctum, and the prayer halls
are decorated with ornate
South Goa district (Ponda taluka). 28 km European chandeliers.
(17 miles) SE of Panaji. * 22,700. @
_ Urs of Shah Abdullah (Feb). The Shantadurga Temple,
3 km (2 miles) southwest of
The town of Ponda is a busy Ponda at Kavlem, is Goa’s most
commercial centre, and its main popular shrine. Built by Shahu,
sight is the Safa Shahouri the grandson of the Maratha
Mosque, 2 km (1 mile) to the chief Shivaji (see p475), the russet
west. Built by Ibrahim Adil Shah and cream coloured temple has
(a successor of Yusuf Adil Shah) an unusual pagoda-style roof,
in 1560, it is a rectangular dominated by a five-storeyed
structure, with window arches, octagonal lamp tower, unique
topped by a slanting tiled roof. to Goa. Grand chandeliers
A ritual tank to the south has the hang from the gilded roof
same designs as those on in the huge central hall, and
the mihrabs (arched niches). embossed silver screens shield
Ponda also lends its name the main sanctuary, which
A 17th-century painting of St Cecilia, to the taluka (sub-district) holds the silver deity of
patroness of church choirs, Pilar of the same name, which is Shantadurga (a form of Shiva’s
renowned for its numerous consort Parvati), brought from
q Pilar Hindu temples, tucked away Mormugao taluka. Also of
in thick forests. As the interest are the huge rathas
North Goa district (Tiswadi taluka).
12 km (7 miles) SE of Panaji. @ Portuguese expanded their (chariots) that are used
territory in central Goa, they during the Jatra in January
Set on a hilltop, Pilar Seminary destroyed over 550 temples. (see p497). The Shri Ramnath
was originally built by the Hindu priests fled with their Temple, a short walk away,
Capuchins (a Franciscan order) religious artifacts to regions is noted for the grand silver
in 1613, on the site of an old that lay outside Portuguese screen embossed with
Hindu temple. Abandoned control, especially the area animal and floral motifs,
in 1835, when all religious around Ponda town, where in front of its sanctum.
orders were disbanded, it was they built new temples Its linga, originally from
reopened by the Carmelites in in the 17th and Loutolim, is worshipped
1858. In 1890, the Society of 18th centuries. by devotees of both Shiva
Pilar set up a mission college More than half of and Vishnu.
here, and classes are still held Goa’s population is Brass lamp tower, The Shri Nagueshi
in the old seminary building. Hindu, and Goan Shri Mahalsa Temple Temple, 4 km
The adjoining Church of Our temples, unlike those (2 miles) west of
Lady of Pilar has an elaborately elsewhere in India, are a Ponda at Bandora, dates to
carved stone doorway with fascinating blend of European 1780, though a temple may
a figure of St Francis of Assisi Baroque, Muslim and Hindu have stood here earlier. Built for
above it. Inside is a statue of architectural styles. Their basic the worship of Nagesh (Shiva as
Our Lady of Pilar, brought here plan remains Hindu, but often Lord of the Serpents), it is one
from Spain. The tomb of Agnelo Muslim domes replace the usual of the oldest temples in this
D’Souza (seminary director, shikharas (spires) over the main region. Its entrance hall has
1918–27) lies adjacent to the
church. The New Seminary,
built in 1946, stands close by.
Its museum displays Christian
art, Portuguese coins and a
stone lion, the symbol of
the Kadamba dynasty.
E Museum
Tel (0832) 221 8521. Open daily (Sun
and public hols by appointment).
Environs
Goa Velha, 2 km (1 mile)
southwest of Pilar, marks the site
of Govapuri, the port-capital
of the Kadamba rulers between
the 11th and 13th centuries, of
which few traces now remain. The large 18th-century water tank at the Shri Mangesh Temple
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp715–16

506-507_EW_India.indd 506 26/04/17 11:48 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm