Page 348 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan
P. 348

346      TR A VELERS ’  NEEDS
       ONSEN


       Japan is peppered with geothermal springs,   concoctions. A visit to an onsen is an antidote
       known as onsen. Communal bathing in these   to the hectic pace of urban life, a chance to
       has been a custom for cen turies, as a religious   recuperate after sightseeing or business, and
       ritual (from the Shinto emphasis on purifica-  an insight into a soothing and compan-
       tion), health cure, or just for plea sure. Many   ionable side of Japan. Hot springs are even
       spa baths tap into natural volcanic activity,   used by animals: Jigoku dani Onsen near
       taming the thermal waters; some are artificially   Nagano, for example, is popular with wild
       heated and enhanced with therapeutic herbal   monkeys, who sit in the pools to keep warm.


                               resorts have been   perhaps at night, when mixed
                               developed so that   bathing is more acceptable.
                               between baths guests   Occasion ally people in outdoor
                               may wander around the   pools (rotenburo) wear
                               town in their yukata   swimsuits, but mostly everyone
                               (lightweight kimonos)    is naked. Nonetheless, the
                               or dine on local fare,   atmosphere is not sleazy, and
                               often excellent. Other   visitors need have no qualms.
                               onsen hotels are in     If you’re staying overnight,
                               isolated hamlets    change into the yukata provided
                               in spec tacular settings.    in your room; either way, when
                               At some onsen hotels   you reach the baths, leave all
       An onsen in Noboribetsu  and public bathhouses    clothes and possessions in the
                               it is possible to stay for   changing room. As with any
       Types of Onsen      just a few hours rather than   Japanese bath, wash and rinse
       The variety of onsen is   over night. Fees can be very   yourself thoroughly at the
       phenomenal. They come   reason able for these short visits   showers and taps provided
       in every format: natural and   – from ¥300 to ¥2,000. For   outside the bath and take great
       man-made; indoors and out-  details of individual onsen,   care not to get any soap or
       doors; as small as a bath and    consult a TIC or local tourist   shampoo in the bath itself.
       as large as a swimming pool;   office, or A Guide to Japanese      The small towel provided can
       lobster-hot and lukewarm;    Hot Springs by Anne Hotta and   be used as a washcloth, draped
       milky and clear; sulfurously    Yoko Ishiguro. English may not   across strategic parts of your
       foul-smelling and sweetly   be spoken at onsen hotels and   body, placed on your head
       earthy. Certain chemical    local tourist offices; try to have    while in the pool (said to
       com positions in the waters are   a Japanese-speaker help you   prevent fainting), or used to dry
       said to help different ailments,   book accommodations.  yourself when you emerge.
       such as arthritis, hypertension,          Keep all jewelry well away
       and skin problems.  Onsen Etiquette     from steam, as the minerals can
         Outdoor baths are generally           tarnish metal. Pregnant women,
       rustic, made of wood or stone,   Etiquette at onsen is similar   babies and young children, and
       and often by a river or the sea.   to that for communal   anyone with high blood pressure
       Some are in caves, under   baths in ryokan (see p301). Pools   should not enter the hottest
       jungle canopies, or behind   are usually single-sex; women   baths without consulting a
       waterfalls, or take the form of   rarely use mixed pools, except   doctor first.
       thermal mud or sand baths.
       Many onsen are in the moun-
       tains: after hiking, a dip in an
       outdoor pool in deep snow
       with a mountain view is per-
       haps the ultimate onsen
       expe rience. Exotic indoor
       onsen include baths in
       cable cars.
         Many onsen operate as hotels,
       with meals and onsen facilities
       all included in the room price
       per person.
         Stay ing overnight allows you
       to sample the pleasures of
       night time bathing. Entire onsen   A steaming sand bath in southern Kyushu




   346-347_EW_Japan.indd   346                               08/08/16   2:54 pm
   343   344   345   346   347   348   349   350   351   352   353