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       and subtle irony. The fourth floor
       is devoted to a permanent   Eduard Vilde (1865–1933)
       exhibition entitled “Difficult   Author of Estonian classics such as The
       Choices”, exploring the com plex   War in Mahtra and The Milkman from
       relationship between art and the   Mäeküla, Eduard Vilde is one of the
       Soviet state, while the fifth floor is   most revered figures in Estonian
       given over to the best in   literature and is generally credited
       contemporary art. However, the   as being the country’s first
       most striking exhibition of all is   pro fessional writer.
       the room filled with hundreds of     Vilde spent a great deal of time
                            travelling abroad and he lived for some
       busts eerily staring into space.
                            time in Berlin in the 1890s, where he was
                            influenced by materialism and socialism.
                            His writings were also guided by the
                            naturalism of the French writer Emile Zola   Eduard Vilde,
                            (1840–1902). In addition to being a writer,   writer and diplomat
                            Vilde was also an outspoken critic of Tsarist
                            rule and of the German landowners. With the founding of the first
                            Estonian republic in 1919, Vilde served as a diplomat in Berlin for
                            several years. He spent the last years of his life editing and revising
                            an enormous volume of his collected works.
                           E Anton Hansen      Tammsaare’s life and work.
                           Tammsaare Museum    The collection of almost 6,000
                           Koidula 12a. Tel 601 3232.    artifacts includes several
                           Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sat. &    photographs, letters and
                           8 ∑ linnamuuseum.ee  manuscripts and even the
       Catherine I’s bedroom, Peter the Great   Anton Hansen Tammsaare   writer’s death mask.
       House Museum        (1878–1940) is Estonia’s most
                           important literary figure. His   E Eduard Vilde Memorial
       E Peter the Great House   five-volume epic Truth and   Museum
       Museum              Justice takes a sweeping look at   Roheline aas 3. Tel 601 3181.
       Mäekalda 2. Tel 601 3136. Open May–  Estonian society from the 1870s   Open 11am–5pm Wed–Sat. &
       Aug: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Sep–Apr:   to the 1930s.  8 ∑ linnamuuseum.ee
       10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &     The museum is situated in the   The Eduard Vilde Memorial
       ∑ linnamuuseum.ee   attractive wooden house in   Museum is housed in a Neo-
       This museum is housed in the   Kadriorg where the novelist and   Baroque summer house beside
       17th-century cottage which    his wife lived from 1932 until his   Kadriorg Park which was
       the Russian emperor used as    death in 1940. The building was   presented to the writer as a
       a summer residence while   converted into a museum in   60th birthday gift by the
       Kadriorg Palace was being built.   1978. On the first floor is the   Estonian government.
       The cottage was pur chased   couple’s five-room flat, while a     Vilde was one of Estonia’s
       along with the surroun ding   separate wing serves as a   most prolific writers, and his
       land in 1713 and was enlarged   museum dedicated to   works amount to a staggering
       with an additional wing so that         33 volumes. The museum
       it contained a hall, a kitchen          showcases the six-room flat
       and four rooms.                         where Vilde lived with his
         After Peter the Great died in         wife from 1927 to 1933. The
       1725, his successors opted to           authentic furnishings are
       stay in the more lavish Kadriorg        accompanied by period art
       Palace and the cottage fell into        pieces and provide a fasci nating
       disrepair until Alexander I             look at literary life in Tallinn in
       ordered it to be restored after         the 1920s. It is said that Vilde
       a visit to Tallinn in 1804. The         could often be seen enjoying
       house contains few remains of           long talks with his neighbour,
       Peter the Great’s time, but it still    the famous writer A H
       affords an intriguing glimpse           Tammsaare, in the nearby park.
       into the life of the enigmatic            The museum has been in
       ruler. The bedroom has a four-          existence since 1946 and is
       poster bed and a pair of slippers       an interesting monu ment.
       which supposedly belonged to            The balusters of the wooden
       the Tsar himself. There is an           staircase, dating from the turn
       exhi bition in the basement   Exterior of the modest A H Tammsaare   of the 19th and 20th century,
       about his life and achievements.  Memorial Museum  have survived.
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