Page 186 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

22
Santarém
! D4 £ @ n Rua Capelo
Ivens 63; 243 304 437
The lively district capital of the
Ribatejo, overlooking the
Tagus, has an illustrious past.
EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo Moors it was the stronghold of PraÇa Sá da a Bandeira, town. The ruins of the
To Julius Caesar it was an
important bureaucratic centre,
Praesidium Julium. To the
Xantarim. To the Portuguese
kings, Santarém was the site
of many gatherings of the
cortes (parliaments).
12th-century fortress now
a square at the heart of
At the centre of the old
Santarém’s old town
enclose a garden. Just below
town, in Praça Sá da a
the castle is the 16th-century
Misericórdia church with a
Bandeira, is the vast Igreja do
Seminário, a multi-windowed
Igreja de Marvila, built in the
interior lined with colourful
Baroque edifice built by João
IV for the Jesuits in 1640 on
12th century and later altered,
“carpet” azulejos from 1674.
has a Manueline portal and is
The Igreja de Santiago, on
the site of a royal palace. The
huge interior has a painted older buildings. The lofty Renaissance portal and an
lined with dazzling early-17th-
Largo do Paço, was probably
wooden ceiling and marble century diamond-patterned built in 1203, although a gilded
and gilt ornamen tation. From azulejo panels. The medieval retable with a wood carving
here, Rua Serpa Pinto runs 22-m- (72-ft-) high Torre das of the young Jesus as sisting
southeast past a cluster of Cabaças was once a clock Joseph in his carpentry is a
tower and now houses 17th-century addition.
a small museum of time. In the centre of town is the
Opposite the tower, the Museu Municipal de Carlos
Museu Arqueológico was Reis, named after the painter
EAT formerly the Romanesque Carlos Reis (1863–1940), who
was born here. The museum
church of São João de Alporão.
Rua Serpa Pinto leads into contains paintings by 19th-
Sabores da Cascata Rua 5 de Outubro and up to the and early-20th-century artists
With a fine terrace Jardim das Portas do Sol, built and a 15th- century Gothic
overlooking the Tejo, on the site of a Moorish castle. figure of Nossa Senhora do Ó.
this eatery serves The gardens are enclosed by
delicious Ribatejan the city’s medieval walls. Museu Municipal de
specialities. Returning into town, on Carlos Reis
! E4 ⌂ Edifício de São Largo Pedro Álvares Cabral, the ⌂ Rua do Salvador § 249 812
Domingos, Rua de São 14th-century Igreja da Graça 535 # 9am–12:30pm, 2pm–
Domingos, 2nd floor, has a spectacular rose window 5:30pm Tue–Fri, 2–5:30pm
Abrantes § 241 364 453 carved from a single stone. Sat & Sun) ¢ Public hols
Further south, the 14th-century
¡¡¡
Igreja do Santíssimo Milagre,
on Rua Braamcamp Freire,
Taberna do has a Renaissance interior 24
Quinzena I Golegã
Established in 1872, this and 16th-century azulejos.
traditional restaurant ! E4 @ n Rua de D Afonso
serves local fare such as Henriques, Largo da
goat and bacalhau. 23 Imaculada Conceição;
! D4 ⌂ Rua Pedro de Torres Novas 249 979 002
Santarém 93–95, Usually a quiet town, Golegã
Santarém ¢ Sun ! E4 @ n Largo dos is overrun during the first two
∑ quinzena.com Combatentes 4–5; weeks of November by horse
249 813 019
¡¡¡ enthusiasts who throng to
Animated streets and fine the annual Feira Nacional do
churches cluster be neath the Cavalo. This horse fair coincides
castle walls of this hand some with the tasting of the year’s
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