Page 187 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

new wine on St Martin’s Day in the late 19th century, it and Oriental rugs, as well as
(11 November). On this day, houses paintings from the early Portuguese Arraiolos
revelers drink the young wine, 17th century, including a carpets, including a partic­
known as agua-pé (literally, charm ing Divine Shepherdess ularly fine one in silk.
“foot water”). in the sacristy in which the
In the centre of town, the young Jesus is shown Casa Museu dos Patudos
16th­century Igreja Matriz, conversing with a sheep. " ⌂ 2 km (1 mile) S of
attributed to Diogo Boitac, On the southern outskirts Alpiarça on N118 § 243 558
has an exquisite Manueline of town is the striking Casa 321 # Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
portal and an interior rich in Museu dos Patudos, sur­
azulejos. The small Casa- rounded by vineyards. This
Estúdio Carlos Relvas is was the residence of the TOP CENTRAL
5
housed in the elegant Art wealthy and cultivated José PORTUGUESE
Nouveau house and studio of Relvas (1858–1929), an art DISHES
the photographer (1838–94). collector and – briefly –
premier of the Republic. The Feijoada
Casa-Estúdio Carlos Relvas exterior of this eye­catching Paprika-spiced stew of
" ⌂ Largo Dom Manuel I country house, built for him beans and vegetables,
§ 249 979 120 # 9:30am– by Raúl Lino in 1905–9, has with cured meat.
1pm, 2–5pm Tue–Sun (to simple white washed walls and
7pm Jun–Sep) ¢ Public hols a green­and­white striped Caldeirada da Peixe
spire. The colonnaded loggia, A stew of fish, peppers,
reached via an outside stair­ tomatoes and potatoes.
25 case, is lined with azulejo Favas à Portuguesa
panels. The museum contains
Alpiarça Relvas’s personal collection Fava beans combined
of fine and decorative art. with morcela (blood
! E4 @ n Praça José sausage) and pork ribs.
Faustino Rodrigues Re naissance paintings include
Virgin with Child and St John
Pinhão; 243 556 000 Arroz Doce
by the school of Leonardo
Set in the vast, fertile plain da Vinci and Christ in the Tomb Lemon zest-scented rice
known as the Lezíria, which by the German school. There pudding with cinnamon.
stretches east of the Tagus and are also paintings by Delacroix Magusto
is famous for horse breeding, and Zurbarán as well as many A purée of dry maize and
Alpiarça is a small, neat town. works by 19th­century Portu­ white bread blended
The fine twin­towered parish guese artists, including 30 by with water and kale,
church, on Rua José Relvas, is Relvas’s friend, José Malhôa. served with bacalhau.
dedicated to Santo Eustáquio, Relvas also collected exquisite
patron saint of the town. Built porcelain, bronzes, furniture

Horses and riders parading
at the annual Feira Nacional
do Cavalo in Golegã
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