Page 188 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

Admiring the collection in
the Museu do Neo-Realismo,
Vila Franca de Xira

27
Coruche
EXPERIENCE Estremadura and Ribatejo 619 072
! E5 £ @ n Galeria do
Mercado Municipal; 243

Coruche is an attractive
little town in the heart of
bullfighting country with a
riverside location overlooking
the Lezíria, the wide open
plain that stretches east of
the Tagus river. The town,
inhabited since Palaeolithic
times, was razed to the
ground in 1180 by the Moors
as reprisal against the
reconquering Christians.
In the central pedestrian
street, Rua de Santarém, the
O Coruja café is lined with
vivid modern azulejo panels
showing bulls in the Lezíria,
the town’s bullring and scenes
26 history are on display in the of local life. A short walk up
Museu Municipal. A collec-
the street stands the tiny
Vila Franca de Xira tion of Neo-Realist literature church of São Pedro. Inside,
and art dating from the early the church is completely
! D5 £ @ n Rua Alves
Redol 5; 263 285 605 20th century, mean while, is covered with 17th-century
found in the Museu do Neo- blue-and-yellow carpet tiles.
Sitting beside the Tagus, this Realismo, which comprises a An azulejo panel on the altar
town has a reputation larger library and exhibition space. front shows St Peter surroun-
than its modest appear ance The town centre retains ded by birds and animals.
suggests. Traditionally the an exuber antly tile-covered Above the town stands the
area has been the centre for market dating from the 1920s. simple 12th-century blue-
bull-and-horse rearing com- Further east, on Largo da and-white church of Nossa
munities. Twice a year, crowds Misericórdia, striking 18th- Senhora do Castelo. From
flock here to participate in century azulejos adorn the here there are excellent views
the bull-running through the chancel of the Misericórdia over the fertile agricul tural
streets and watch the tourada church. South of town, the land and cork oaks of the
and traditional horsemanship. Ponte Marechal Carmona, Sorraia valley and the Lezíria.
The animated and gaudy built in 1951, is the only
Festa do Colete Encarnado bridge across the Tagus
(named after the red waist- between Santarém to the 28
coat worn by campinos, the north and Lisbon to the south.
Ribatejo herds men) takes Alenquer
place over several days in Museu Municipal ! D5 @ n Parque Vaz
early July. The festival is a ⌂ Rua Serpa Pinto 65 Monteiro; 263 711 433
lively occasion with folk § 263 280 350 # 9:30am–
dancing, boat races on the 12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun Vila Alta, the old part of town,
Tagus and sardines grilled in ¢ Public hols climbs steeply up the slopes
the street. A similar festival, of the hillside, high above the
the Feira de Outubro, takes Museu do Neo-Realismo newer town by the river. In the
place in October. ⌂ Rua Alves Redol 45 central Praça Luís de Camões,
Archaeological exhibits and § 263 285 626 # 10am– the 15th-century church of
artifacts relating to regional 6:30pm daily São Pedro contains the tomb
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