Page 215 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 215

The stunning village of
           Sortelha, watched over
                  by its castle


       Cabral, the first navigator to
       land in Brazil, had forebears
       who fought at Ceuta (p44) and
       Aljubarrota (p173). Fernão, an
       earlier ancestor, was famed
       for his feats of strength. The
       family crest, incorporating a
       goat (cabra), can be seen in
       the castle and adjacent
       chapel. The castle, begun in
       1266, retains its keep and a                 STAY
       Manueline window added
       later. The little church of São   in the Treaty of Alcañices, the
       Tiago nearby has preserved   castle was refortified by the   Casa da Lagariça
       its Romanesque sim plicity:   ever-industrious King Dinis.    Accommodation in one
       the frescoes above the altar   Its imposing towered walls   of Sortelha’s attractive
       and, in a tiny side chapel, a   and unusual five-sided keep   old stone houses, this
       granite pietà date from the   survive from this era, although   18th-century former
       13th century. Beside the   the castle suffered in peace-  grape store now offers
       church is the 15th-century   time from villagers raiding it   three bedrooms,
       Capela dos Cabrais which   for building stone.  two bathrooms and
       holds the Cabral family tombs.    Peopled since prehistoric   a kitchen.
         The modern Igreja da   times, Sabugal still has part of   ! F3   ⌂ Calçada de Santo
       Sagrada Família (1940) is the   its medieval walls, reinforced   Antão 11, Sortelha
       repository for a treasured   in the 17th century and now   ∑ casalagarica.com
       statue of Nossa Senhora da   ringed by newer houses. In   ¡¡¡
       Esperança said to have   the Praça da República stands
       accompanied Cabral on his   a granite clock tower, recon-  Solar de Alarcão
       voyage to Brazil. The Museu   structed in the 17th century.
       Judaico de Belmonte charts                 This 17th-century
                                                  manor house, with a
       the development of the Jewish             serene atmosphere and
       community in the region.  27               filled with antiques,
         Northeast of Belmonte is                 is right in the heart
       the Roman Centum Cellas,   Sortelha         of Guarda, near
       also called Torre de Colmeal.     ! F3   ⌂ 20 km (12 miles)   the cathedral.
       It is not known what the role   west of Sabugal
       of this square, three-storeyed            ! F3   ⌂ Rua Dr Miguel de
                                                 Alarcão 25–27, Guarda
       structure was – maybe a   Wrapped in its ring of walls,   ∑ solardealarcao.pt
       hostel or military base, a   Sortelha is enchanting. This
       mansion or a temple.  beautifully preserved town   ¡¡¡
                           sits on a granite outcrop and
       Museu Judaico       the views from the high keep
       de Belmonte         of its gem of a 13th-century
       ⌂ Rua da Portela 4   § 275   castle are stunning.
       088 698   # Tue–Sun    The castle has several   granite houses. Sortelha’s old
                           Manueline features, including   town is a short walk or drive
                           the coat of arms of Manuel I   from a newer town where you
       26                  and armillary spheres. Parts     will find shops and restaurants.
                           of its walls were blown up
                                                 The local fondness for
       Sabugal             by Napoleon’s troops but    bullfights is reflected in
                           later rebuilt.      names of nearby villages
       ! F3   @   n Inside the castle;
       271 750 080           In front of the castle   such as Vila do Touro. In a local
                           entrance is a 16th-century   variation of the controversial
       In 1296, when this small town   pillory with an armillary sphere   sport, the capeia, bulls were
       beside the Côa river was   on top. In the tiny citadel are     taunted into charging into a
       confirmed as Portuguese    a school and stony lanes of   huge fork of branches.
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