Page 212 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 212

Santuário da Nossa Senhora
                            da Lapa. The story tells of a   INSIDER TIP
                                                     Ghost Village
           Did You Know?    mute shepherd girl, Joana,   Explore Marialva, 14 km
                            who found a statue of the
                            Virgin Mary on a great boulder   (9 miles) northeast of
          The local Serra cheese –
          made from ewe’s milk –   and took it home. Irritated,   Trancoso – an eerily
                                                  abandoned village
           is at its tastiest when    her mother threw it on the   where tumble down
            it turns runny.  fire, at which moment the   ruins of the houses, hall
                            child miraculously spoke:
      EXPERIENCE  The Beiras  20  “It is the Senhora da Lapa.” A   citadel. It is a mystery
                                                  and prison are all that
                            “Don’t burn it,” cried Joana.
                                                  remain of the medieval
                            chapel was built to enshrine
                                                  why the area was deser­
                            the boulder, and the image
                                                  ted. No battle destroyed
                            looks down from a recess.
                                                  it; it seems merely to
        Sernancelhe
                              The castle at Penedono is
                                                  have been abandoned
                            captivating. In the middle of
        ! F2   @   n Town hall;
        254 550 030
                                                  more fruitful lands.
                            northeast of Sernancelhe, it
                            has survived since at least the
        Whitewashed houses cluster   this small town 17 km (11 miles)   as townsfolk moved to
        around the granite heart of   10th century.
        this modest Beira town. In              famous Serra cheese. From
        Praça da República stands the   Santuário da Nossa   November to February a
        Romanesque Igreja Matriz. The   Senhora da Lapa  cheese market is held in the
        granite statues in its façade   ⌂ Quintela da Lapa, 11 km    Praça Municipal, and there is
        niches, survivors from the    (7 miles) SW of Sernancelhe     a cheese fair every February.
        12th century, flank a notable   § 232 688 993   # Daily  Around Rua Fernão Pacheco,
        arched portal embellished by            running from the main road
        a semicircle of carved angels.          up to the castle, is the old
        The grandest house here is the   21     centre of Celorico, which is
        Baroque Solar dos Carvalhos             manifested in a cluster of
        behind the church. Long and   Celorico da Beira  granite houses with Manueline
        low, with carved granite portals   ! F3   £   @   n Rua Sacadura   windows and Gothic doors.
        against whitewashed walls, it is   Cabral; 271 742 109    Of the 10th-century castle,
        where the local noble family            battered by a long succession
        lived in the 18th century.   In the lee of the Serra da   of frontier disputes with
          In the Serra da Lapa rising   Estrela, the pastures around   Spain, only a tower and the
        to the south of Sernancelhe,   Celorico da Beira have long   outer walls remain. Its stark
        stands a shrine known as the   been a source of the region’s   silhouette is less dramatic
                                                at close quarters. The Igreja
                                                Matriz, which was restored
                                                in the 18th century, has a
                                                painted coffered ceiling.
                                                During the Peninsular War,


















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