Page 213 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

EAT

A Taberna
Cosy and rustic, this
lovely eatery serves the
likes of roast goat and
bacalhau, which are
cooked in the wood-
fired oven.
! E3 ⌂ Rua dos
Combatentes da Grande
Guerra 86, Coimbra
¢ Sun D, Mon L
∑ restaurante
ataberna.com
¡¡¡
A typical narrow street
in the peaceful walled O Cortiço
town of Trancoso A traditional restaurant
serving a good range of
tapas and hearty meat
the church served briefly here the first unrestricted dishes, including duck
as a makeshift hospital for fair in Por tugal. Left in peace with rice, which is best
the English forces. after 1385, the town became eaten with a Dão wine.
a lively com mercial centre. ! E3 ⌂ Rua Augusto
Trancoso once had a large Hilário 45, Viseu § 916
22 Jewish population; in the old 461 576 ¢ Sun D, Mon
Jewish quarter, houses survive
Trancoso with one broad and one ¡¡¡
narrow door, separating
! F2 @ n Avenida HerÓis
de São Marcos 2; 271 domestic life from commerce.
811 147 From the southern gate, Rua
da Corredoura leads to São The present Vauban­style
When King Dinis married Isabel Pedro, restored after 1720. A strong hold was designed in
here in 1283, he gave her tombstone in the church com­ 1641 by Antoine Deville after
Trancoso as a wedding gift. memorates Gonçalo Anes, a Spain’s Philip IV, in post­
He was also responsible for local shoe maker who, in the Restoration rage, destroyed
the walls that still encircle the 1580s, wrote the celebrated the earlier defences protecting
town and, in 1304, established Trovas under the name of the town and its castle.
Bandarra. These stories From 1742 to 1743 Almeida
prophesied the return of was in Spanish hands again,
the young King Sebastião. and then during the Peninsular
The castle perched on War was held in turn by the
rocks at Penedono, French under Masséna and
near Sernancelhe the British under the Duke of
23 Wellington. In 1810, a French
Almeida shell lit a powder trail that
des troyed the castle.
! F2 @ n Portas de São To breach the town’s
Francisco; 271 570 020
fortifications, cross a bridge
Formidable defences in the and pass through a tunnel.
form of a 12­pointed star The under ground soldiers’
guard this small, delightfully barracks, can be visited and an
preserved border town. armoury in the main gateway,
Almeida was recognized by the Portas de São Francisco,
Spain as Portuguese territory holds further mementoes of
under the Alcañices Treaty on Almeida’s military past. A walk
12 September 1297, but this around the grassy walls gives
did not stop further incursions. rewarding views of the town.
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