Page 210 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 210

15
        Arganil
        ! E3   @   n Avenida das
        Forças Armadas;
        235 200 137
        Tradition has it that this was a
        Roman city called Argos. In the
      EXPERIENCE  The Beiras   mother of Afonso Henriques,
        12th century, Dona Teresa, the
        gave the town to the bishopric
        of Coimbra, whose incumbent
        also acquired the title of
        Conde de Arganil. Most of
        the town’s architecture is
        unremarkable, but the church
        of São Gens, the Igreja Matriz
        in Rua de Visconde de Frias,
        dates back perhaps to the
        14th century.
          One of the most curious   The Village of Piódão,
        local sights is kept in the   blending into the
        sanctuary of Mont’Alto, 3 km   Serra de Açor
        (2 miles) above the town. Here,
        the Capela do Senhor da
        Ladeira harbours the Menino   mother of Afonso Henriques.   17
        Jesus, a Christ Child figure in     The 13th-century Igreja Matriz
        a bicorne hat (part of a full   in Largo Ribeira do Amaral   Piódão
        wardrobe). He comes out for   houses a magnificent reminder   ! E3   @ From Coja 20 km
        festas but the chapel key is   of the era of these warrior   (12 miles) away   n Largo
        otherwise available from the   monks. One of the founders   Cónego Manuel Fernandes
        last house on the right.  of the town, Domingues   Nogueira; 235 732 787
                            Joanes, is buried beside
                            his wife in the Capela dos   The Serra de Açor (Hills of the
        16                  Ferreiros. His large tomb is   Goshawk) is a place of bleak
                                                beauty, where solitary villages
                            surmounted by a charming
        Oliveira do Hospital  equestrian statue.   cling to precipitous terraces.
                              Today, this lively industrial   Piódão is the most striking of
        ! E3   @   n Casa da Cultura,
        Rua do Colégio; 238    town is perfectly situated for   these dark schist and slate
                            exploring the valleys of the
                                                hamlets. Seem ingly remote,
        609 269
                            Mondego and the Alva.  Piódão was, until the 1800s,
        These lands           At Lourosa, 12 km (7 miles)   on the main commer cial route
        once belonged       to the southwest of Oliveira   from Coimbra to Covilhã, but
        to the Knights      do Hospital, the simple 10th-  with newer roads the village
        Hospitallers, a      century church of São Pedro   was forgotten. But Piódão is
        gift in 1120           reflects the changing fate   coming back to life: houses
        from the               of Portugal over the   are being repainted and the
                               centuries. A cemetery   bright white Igreja Matriz once
                               excavated beneath the   again stands out against the
                               church dates from the   surround ing dark stone.
                               Roman era; the porch
                               is Visigothic, while inside
                               are ten impressive   18
                                Roman arches
                                 and an ajimene    Caramulo
                                  (Moorish window).
                                                ! E3   @   n Avenida Dr
                                                Jerónimo de Lacerda 750;
                                                232 861 437
                                  Statue in the   In a grassy rolling serra west
                                  church at Oliveira   of Viseu, this small town was
                                  do Hospital   once, with its clear moun tain
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