Page 252 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

1809

Portuguese soldiers
delayed Napoleon’s
troops at Amarante.
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes At Tarouquela, around 16 km

(10 miles) west of Cinfães, is
the 12th-century church of
Santa Maria Maior. Roman-
esque columns flank the
portal, while later additions
include the 14th-century
Gothic mauso leum.

between Cinfães and Lamego,
stands another church dedica-
The sactuary of
Nossa Senhora da
ted to the Virgin Mary. Legend
Piedade in Penafiel In the village of Cárquere,
tells how the sickly young
Afonso Henriques, future king
of Portugal, was healed at
4 of rich nobleman Egas Moniz. Cárquere by his devoted aide,
A figure of legendary loyalty,
Penafiel Moniz was counsellor to
Afonso Henriques (1139–85),
! E2 @ n Largo Padre
Américo; 255 710 722 the first king of Portugal.
The granite town of Penafiel Quinta da Aveleda EAT
stands on a hilltop above the " ' ⌂ Signposted from
Sousa river. Apart from an N115 § 255 718 200 Confeitaria da Ponte
elegant Renaissance-style # Mon–Sat (Apr–Oct: daily) With a lovely terrace
Igreja Matriz, there is also a ¢ Public hols right by Amarante’s
sanctuary, Nossa Senhora famous bridge, this café
da Piedade, built in 1908 in a specializes in sweets
curious medley of Neo-Gothic 5 and pastries once made
and Byzantine styles. Penafiel in the local convent.
is chiefly known, however, as Cinfães ! E2 ⌂ Rua 31 de
the regional centre for the ! E2 @ n Rua Capitão Janeiro 186, Amarante
production of vinho verde. Salgueiro Maia; 255 § 255 432 034
One of the region’s foremost 561 230 ¡¡¡
estates producing vinho verde
is Quinta da Aveleda, just Cinfães lies just above the
north of Penafiel. Douro river, tucked below Largo do Paco
Boelhe, around 17 km the foothills of the Serra de This elegant restaurant
(11 miles) south of Penafiel, Montemuro, whose peaks rise boasts a Michelin star
merits a detour for the 12th- over 1,000 m (3,300 ft). The due to the innovative
century church of São Gens. town is a gateway to bustling cuisine by chef André
Only 10 m (33 ft) high, and a Lamego (p254) and the Upper Silva and seasonally
mere 7 m (23 ft) in width and Douro to the east, and is sur- changing tasting
menus.
length, it is claimed to be the rounded by verdant scenery.
smallest Romanesque church Cinfães is an agri cultural ! E2 ⌂ Largo do
in the country. Its simple design centre and local handicrafts Paço 6, Amarante
enhances the aesthetic appeal. include weaving, lacework, ∑ casadacalcada.com
In the 13th-century church basketry, and the production ¡¡¡
of São Salvador at Paço de of miniature rabelos, the boats
Sousa, 8 km (5 miles) south- that used to ship port down
west of Penafiel, is the tomb the river to Porto.
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