Page 257 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

The historical centre
of Chaves, the
thermal spa town

12
Chaves
! F1 @ n Paço dos Duques
de Bragança; 276 348 180
Beside the upper reaches of
the Tâmega stands historic
Chaves, attractively sited in
the middle of a fertile plain.
Thermal springs and nearby
gold deposits encouraged the
Romans to establish Aquae
Flaviae here in AD 78. Its
strategic position led to 14th-century keep overlooking time of the Emperor Trajan. Its
invasions and occupation by this pleasant medieval square construction brought added
the Suevi, Visigoths and Moors, is all that remains of the castle importance to Chaves as a
before the Portuguese gained given to Nuno Álvares Pereira staging post on the route
final possession in 1160. by João I. On the south side of be tween Braga and Astorga
Today Chaves is renowned the square stands the Igreja (in northwestern Spain). On the
for its spa and historic centre, Matriz with its fine Roman- bridge are Roman milestones
and for its smoked hams. The esque portal. The Baroque that record that funds to build
distinctive black pottery that Misericórdia church opposite it were raised locally.
is a curiosity of the north is has an exquisite interior lined A short walk from the city
made in nearby Nantes. with 18th-century azulejos. centre is one of the hottest
The old town centres on the Attributed to Policarpo de thermal springs in Europe.
Praça de Camões, where the Oliveira Bernardes, the huge Water here bubbles up at a
panels depict scenes from temperature of 73°C (163°F)
the New Testament. and the spa’s facilities attract
TOP DOURO VALLEY
5 VINEYARDS Within the castle keep is both holiday-makers and
patients seeking treatment.
the Museu Militar, where
suits of armour, uniforms Chaves water is recommended
Quinta da Pacheca and associated regalia are for the healing of ailments as
One of the valley’s oldest on dis play. Also exhibited are diverse as rheumatism, hyper-
vineyards (www.quinta military memor abilia from tension and kidney problems.
dapacheca.com). the city’s defence against the
attack by Royalists from Spain Museu Militar and Museu
Quinta de Vargellas in 1912. In the flower-filled da Região Flaviense
This large vineyard is garden surrounding the keep " ⌂ Praça de Camões
owned by Taylor’s are a few archaeo logical finds § 276 340 500 # Daily
(www.taylor.pt). from Chaves’s long history, ¢ Public hols
but most are to be found in
Quinta das Carvalhas the Museu da Região Thermal Springs
As well as tastings, this Flaviense behind the keep. ⌂ Largo da Caldas § 276
estate has great views Here, in the Paço dos Duques 332 445 # Daily
(254 738 050).
de Bragança, are dis played a
variety of local archaeological
Quinta do Panascal discoveries. Items of interest
Produces the famed
Fonesca port wines include sou venirs of the Roman Did You Know?
(www.fonseca.pt). occupation, such as milestones
and coins, alongside an oxcart Chaves is a corruption
Quinta do Seixo and a straw mantle of the type of Aquae Flaviae,
Home to the famed worn by shepherds for pro- named after its patron,
Sandeman brand tection in the rain or hot sun. Emperor Titus Flavius
(www.sandeman.com). The 16-arch Roman bridge Vespasianus.
across the Tâmega was com-
pleted around AD 100, at the
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