Page 255 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

STAY

Senhora dos Remédios was oldest church in Portugal.
Forte de São built on the spectacular site. Although much modified, the
Francisco The church is reached via an 7th-century sanctuary, of Visi-
Stay inside this 17th- awe-inspiring double stairway, gothic origins, remains. Here,
century fortress in the similar to Braga’s even larger in an ornate tomb, lies Afonso
heart of Chaves. It has Bom Jesus (p276). Its 686 steps Pires, a 14th-century bishop of
been converted into a and nine terraces, embellished Porto. A statue of Nossa
hotel, with its own bar, with azulejos and urns, rise to Senhora do Ó, the pregnant
pool and restaurant. the Pátio dos Reis, a circle of Virgin, is from the 15th century.
! F1 ⌂ Forte de São noble granite figures beneath The 12th-century monastery
Francisco, Chaves the twin-towered church. The of São João de Tarouca, the
∑ fortesaofrancisco.com church itself is of marginal first Cistercian house in Portu-
interest, but there is a well- gal, lies 16 km (10 miles) south
¡¡¡
earned view across the town of Lamego. The interior of the
to the Douro and its tributaries. church has many fine 18th-
Quinta Nova
de Nossa Senhora In early September, pilgrims century azulejo panels, notably
do Carmo arrive in their thousands for those in the chancel depicting
This 18th-century Lamego’s Romaria de Nossa the founding of the monastery,
manor house, in the Senhora dos Remédios, many and in the sacristy, where none
of the 4,709 tiles has the same
of them climbing the steps on
heart of a wine estate, their knees. design. The church also con-
offers vineyard tours
and wine tastings. Lamego’s Gothic cathedral, tains a remarkable St Peter by
There’s a pool and terrific founded in 1129, retains its Grão Vasco. The Count of
views towards the river. original square tower, while Barcelos, bastard son of King
the rest of the architecture
Dinis, is buried here, his tomb
! E2 ⌂ Covas do Douro, reflects modifications between adorned with vigorous scenes
Vila Real ∑ quinta the 16th and 18th centuries, of a boar hunt.
nova.com
including a Renaissance
¡¡¡ cloister with a dozen arches. Nossa Senhora
The Museu de Lamego is dos Remédios
housed in the former bishop’s ⌂ Monte de Santo Estêvão
palace. Pride of place goes to # Daily
the strikingly original Criação
this prosperous period are still dos Animais (Creation of the Museu de Lamego
a feature of the town. Today, Animals), part of a series of " ⌂ Largo de Camões
the main focus of Lamego is altar panels attribu ted to the § 254 600 230 # Daily
as a pilgrimage town. great 16th-century Portuguese ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, Easter, 8 Sep,
A small hilltop chapel, origi- artist Grão Vasco. 25 Dec
nally dedicated in 1391 to At the foot of the valley
St Stephen, became the focus 4 km (2 miles) east of Lamego, São João de Tarouca
of pilgrims devoted to the the Capela de São Pedro de ⌂ Signposted from N226
Virgin, and in 1761 Nossa Balsemão is said to be the § 254 678 766 # Daily
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