Page 254 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

frequently in the past from
INSIDER TIP severe floods, and these are
Grape Rails still a threat, although they Grand stairway leading
Take one of Portugal’s have lessened since dams to Nossa Senhora dos
Remédios, Lamego
prettiest train rides were built across the Douro
from Peso da Régua in the 1970s and 1980s.
to Pocinho. You’ll pass Many visitors to Régua often
along the banks of pause here only briefly on their 8
the Douro river and way to explore the “port Mesão Frio
EXPERIENCE Douro and Trás-os-Montes 7 Museu do Douro, which is This scenic gateway to the
through some of the
country”, but budding
! E2 @ n Avenida
area’s dramatically
connoisseurs shouldn’t over­
Conselheiro José Maria
terraced vineyards.
look Peso da Régua. The
Alpoim; 933 911 043
set in a beautifully designed
port­wine­growing region
contemporary building, is
enjoys a fine setting above
of particular interest. Well
Peso da Régua
presented, it portrays the
the Douro. Around it, the
majestic tiers of the Serra do
region’s rich heritage through
! E2 £ @ n Av do Douro;
Marão rise to form a natural
paintings, writings and other
254 318 152
climatic shield for the vineyards
forms of local culture.
Developed from the villages
known for its wickerwork and
of Peso and Régua in the 18th
countryside are some beauti­
a culinary speciality, falachas –
ful quintas, country estates
century, Peso da Régua is the
producing port. The Quinta
major hub for rail and road
or chestnut cakes.
da Pacheca is at Cambres, 4 km The Igreja Matriz of São
connections in the region. Set in the surrounding to the east. Mesão Frio itself is
In 1756, Régua, as the town (2 miles) to the south west. Nicolau was rebuilt in 1877,
is invariably called, was chosen Dating from the 18th century, but has retained its magni­
by the Marquês de Pombal as this winery also produces red ficent late­16th­century ceiling
the centre of the demarcated and white wines. panels, each one bearing the
region for port production. portrait of a saint.
From here, rabelos, the tradi­ Museu do Douro
tional wooden sailing ships, ⌂ Rua Marquês de Pombal
trans ported the barrels of § 254 310 190 # 10am–6pm 9
port through hazardous daily ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
gorges to Vila Nova de Gaia Lamego
(p234). They continued to ply Quinta da Pacheca ! E2 @ n Rua Regimento
the river even after the advent ⌂ Cambres ∑ quintada de Infantária 9; 254
of the Douro railway in the pacheca.com # Tours by 099 000
1880s. Régua suffered appt only
An attractive town within
the demarcated port area,
Lamego also produces wines,
including Raposeira, Portugal’s
premier sparkling wine. This
fertile region is also known
for its fruit and choice hams.
In its more illustrious past,
Lamego claims to have been
host in 1143 to the first cortes,
or national assembly, which
recognized Afonso Henriques
as first king of Portugal. The
town’s later economic decline
was halted in the 16th century,
when it turned to wine and
textile production, and hand­
some Baroque mansions from
Museu do Douro, set in a
distinct modern building
in Peso da Régua
254
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